Chris Benz Fall 2011

The David Rubenstein Atrium was packed beyond capacity on Valentine’s Day.  The occasion was the presentation of Chris Benz’ Fall 2011.  Crowds pushed their way slowly through the exhibit, frustrating photographers and celebrities alike.  Susan Sarandon was spotted swimming with the tide.  Fashion blogger BryanBoy was observing the collection while inexplicably dressed as a lion. 

The clothes themselves were a representation of two of the top trends of the season…Americana and the 1970’s.   The color palette was warm, with a mix of cozy textures.  Wool mixed with leather, some fur and georgette.  Patterns included oversized swinging plaids and hippie florals.  Longer skirts with shorter pants were layered with 70's outerwear silhouettes.  Floppy hats played a big role in accessories.  Shoes were also a standout.  The shoes had funky colors and prints that would contrast the rest of the outfit.  

The muse of this collection was the studio lady of Savannah, Georgia, where Mr. Benz acts mentor.  This was another one of many nerd-chic collections this season  that once again proved brainy is HOT!

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Oscars Red Carpet Winners

Red and variations thereof ruled over the red carpet for 2011.  A continuation from the Golden Globes.  Anne Hathaway went through numerous gown changes throughout the night, but she made her entrance in a Valentino gown with a poufed train.  She thanked the designer right on the carpet with a kiss.  Natalie Portman looked as gorgeous as a very pregnant woman (and most non-pregnant women) could ever hope to look in a flattering merlot gown by Rodarte.  She showed allegiance to the designers who designed several notable costumes for her winning Oscar film Black Swan.  Last year's Best Actress award winner swept the carpet in a statuesque Vera Wang gown.  Jennifer Hudson rocked her new body in a tomato shade of Atelier Versace.  Penelope Cruz smoldered in a body conscious sequin embroidered L'Wren Scott dress.

Embellished nude and neutrals were a close runner up.  Gwyneth Paltrow split the yay/nay vote with the sequin embroidered sheath by Calvin Klein.  I personally thought she was missing an entourage of Muppets al Grammy Awards.  Halle Berry was a favorite of many critics in an embroidered tulle gown with dramatic train from Marchesa.  Nicole Kidman was stunning as usual in a proper couture embroidered Dior gown.  

Pretty in pink, lilac or lavender.  In a pre-cursor to spring, some of my favorite gowns of the night were (gasp!) pastel.  Hailee Steinfeld wore a crystal embroidered gown with a full tulle skirt that made her look ladylike, but completely appropriate for her age.  Marchesa wins again on this one.  Mila Kunis made her turn down the red carpet with a sexy but feminine frock by Elie Saab.  The strategic georgette draped panels and placement of delicate lace was provocative, but forgiving.  The gorgeous color served to enhance her strong features.  The lilac Haute Couture Givenchy on Cate Blanchett will be controversial among mainstream  critics.  However, all of the designers and industry elite were spanking themselves when the camera panned her gown.  The rigid shoulder and waist cinch framed the soft, shirred bodice and skirt with hand embroidered stones and beads.  The acid yellow spot color of beading around the neck was surprising, keeping the gown from taking itself too seriously.

For anyone who knows me, they know I always root for the fashion underdogs.  I love the rebel and the women who dare to flaunt the unexpected.  Marisa Tomei brought out a legendary designer, mostly forgotten by modern generations.  She wore a refitted Charles James Lily and Cie gown from 1950.  The gown's satin bustier and miles of organza skirt was like a museum piece brought to life.  

Helena Bonham Carter deliberately likes to turn her nose up at the fashion police.  She bypassed the traditional fashion designers and had long-time Tim Burton collaborator (and Oscar winner) Colleen Atwood make her gown.  It was an avant-garde, somewhat Gothic gown of black velvet and satin.  On the red carpet, she pulled up her skirt in a suggestive with with sassy wink to reveal a British flag.  This was her personal support for her film, the King's Speech.  It must have worked, the film took home Best Actor, Director and Film.

Photos from Getty, OK! Magazine

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Richie Sambora's White Trash Beautiful - Rock N' Roll Style

 Be honest, when you hear "celebrity fashion line" or a rocker is starting a clothing collection, do you have high expectations?  I didn't think so.

I have to admit, that when I first received Style360's invitation to the runway presentation of Bon Jovi's Richie Sambora's label White Trash Beautiful with Nikki Lund, I was skeptical.  I am happy to say I was pleasantly surprised.  The collection was cohesive, represented rock n' roll and was sexy without being skanky.  This is the contemporary collection of the strong woman who plays with the boys, but not the groupie.

There were plays on micro-mini short vs. long lengths.  Dresses showed skin strategically, pants covered up but revealed shape.  Shine and leather-like fabrics gave edge to what were actually very wearable pieces.

The show was sponsored by Poloroid Sunglasses.  They had a huge selection of fashion forward styles on display and given away to lucky fashionistas.  The big treat was a surprise performance by Ryan Star singing his new single Brand New Day.  The rocker is currently opening for Bon Jovi on tour.

Prices range from aboutg $135 for a top to over $600 for a Grammy Awards Red Carpet dress.

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Dennis Basso Fall 2011 collection

Dennis Basso is famous for his decadent use of fur and attracting ladies who lunch. Naturally, his Fall 2011 collection had plenty of both. The audience in attendance was different than the usual fashion week crowd of outlandish characters and expressionless editors in black. Instead, the ladies who lunched and socialite set of the Upper East Side came to support their favorite furrier designer.  

Entire front rows of the double runway were filled with svelte, tall women carrying lots of pelts and sported real or faux tans with highlighted blonde hair. 

Dennis Basso's fur lovers in the front row

There was almost an obscene amount of fur in every variation. It was used in suit jackets to three quarter length coats. There were a few dresses in the mix.  A sheer, tiered lace frock was actually quite breathtaking.  I wish there had been more of those but this was a fall collection, which screams out for  fur, correct?

The colors were beautiful neutrals.   Browns, beige and light greys made up the palette.  It may not be to everyone's taste. Those of us in the press pit were all frisked at the last moment with a full search of our equipment and bags.  Apparently, there were fears that a PETA member might sneak in as a paparazzi shooting, with paint instead of a lens…

Luckily, there were no such incidents.  Under all the fur pieces, there were slinky, covet-worthy pieces. These included a chocolate silk plunging cowl neck evening dress that glided down the runway and looked surprisingly comfy. There were also some sharply tailored suits and trousers in luxe fabrics as well as cool knit crochet dresses with ruffles and flounces. 

Dennis Basso Fall 2011

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NY FASHION WEEK:Christian Siriano Fall 2011

Project Runway's most celebrated alumni sent his darker event dresses down the runway at the beginning of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  He played with volume and sheer, with elaborate ruffling to dress up the ballgown silhouettes.  Black favored heavily in the overall palette, as Christian Siriano understands what "fierce" NY women like to wear.  One would think that the monochromatic presentation would be boring, but the designer kept the visuals interesting by mixing the weights and textures of the fabrics within each fabric.  Knits were layered with satin, chiffon with wool, etc.  

Accessories on the other, were not as successful.  Mr. Siriano's collaboration with Payless Shoes has been heavily promoted by the brand, but the footwear chosen for the show was awkward.  Perhaps the Payless platform just wasn't made for the runway walker, as several models were visibly challenged by them.

Siriano's glam-licious creations always bring out the stars...Mena Suvari, Gabrielle Union and Alexa Chung were spotted shopping from the front row.

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Balenciaga and Spain Exhibit in NYC and San Francisco

Cristobal Balenciaga left a legacy of elegance in Haute Couture.  The designer was heavily influenced by the culture and religion of Spain.  This relationship was explored in an exhibit that just finished at the Upper East Side’s Queen Sofia Spanish Institute and will resume in expanded form at the De Young Fine Arts Museum in San Francisco. 

The exhibit was curated by Vogue’s Hamish Bowles.  There were archival films of the designer’s salon presentations and 1960’s fashion films.  Collections of his sketches and magazine editorials were displayed with influential images that figured into his work.

Another floor compared religious garb and their influence on some of Balenciaga’s iconic pieces.  Heavily embellished toreador uniforms were muse to a collection of hats and beaded boleros.  The rest of the third floor was devoted to gorgeous couture corsets and dresses that were drool-worthy even today.

When disposable fashion fails to inspire you, take a moment to see how a master gets it done.

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NY Fashion Week: Nautica Fall 2011

How relevant is sailing attire in the very urban center of Manhattan?  While you ponder that, take a peek at the Fall 2011 offerings from Nautica Sportswear.  This (mostly) menswear label has never been the trendsetter of the industry.  However, it brings value to sportswear staples with nautical details.

  

Outerwear was the standout of their presentation.  Variations on peacoats and toggle coats were the big push.  A lighter grouping of sporty whites had better intentions for the sea.  

An overworked, underslept design team was on hand to show support of their efforts.  More exhausted staff were left back at the studio to toil away for the next season, making sure the clothes fit well…

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NY Fashion Week: Zang Toi Fall 2011

It was the last show after a thirteen hour day at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week… A ray of beauty perked a roomful of exhausted fashion elite.  In a stunning runway presentation last week, Zang Toi gave a show that drew constant applause and the first sincere standing ovation I have ever seen at Lincoln Center.

The very first look was a dramatic caped cashmere figure that drew gasps from the audience.  After that came gown after gown, embroidered jewels and luxury.  The colors palette was simple,  camel, lush forest green and black.  There were hundreds of people in the studio venue, yet the atmosphere managed to be intimate and supportive.  

Real Housewife of New York, Jill Zarin walked the runway in one of the most dramatic dresses.  She also came out to help the designer take his much-deserved bow.  Mr. Toi came out in a classic tuxedo and was visibly moved by the audience response.  

I had previously worked with Zang Toi in my earlier days in embroidery design.  He was always a sweet, creative man.  I couldn’t be happier for the success of this collection!

Check out our exclusive interview with the designer in his studio:

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NY Fashion Week: Norman Ambrose Fall 2011

Norman Ambrose embodied the Luxe Life in his Fall Winter 2011 collection with vignettes reminiscent of classic Vogue or Bazaar photo spreads. Furs, silks, feathers, hand appliquéd beading were enticingly incorporated with premium knits and delicate fabrics for the woman who is both a woman of leisure and the CEO.

The show was divided into two sides, with daywear on the left and evening wear on the right.

Some of my favorite touches – on the daytime side wool suiting with gold threads and Snakeskin Pants that can go anywhere.  On the evening side – sleek, flattering, modest cuts and the subtle use of luxurious accents that some designers overuse – sheer mesh with beading and a well-placed row of feathers around the knee of a long sequined gown.

Photos and Reporting by Marcy Clark of Women's Mafia

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NY Fashion Week: Betsey Johnson Fall 2011

What was the highlight of fashion week for me? The irreverent, vivacious Betsey Johnson presenting her Fall 2011 collection at Lincoln Center on Valentine's Day. Undoubtedly, her show is the brightest  trip of the week.   This season, she presented both her upmarket Black Tag collection and her more affordable, Pink Patch lines on the same runway.  

For the 33 years, Betsey has put on a fabulous show for her downtown girls.  The models were relaxed and beautiful in clashing over-saturated florals and prints.   They strutted in short Louise Brooks black bobs with lace spray-on color insets.  

There were peplum jackets and skintight pants in black and white leopard prints.  Red rompers over shiny red leopard tights were seen.   Red plaid tartan bustiers were worn over long fuchsia skirts. While the collection on the runway was great on the models, the individual pieces were wearable for non-model types too.  My personal collection (of now vintage) Betsey Johnson  dresses still receive compliments, so I can attest that each piece is workable in any wardrobe.  

For the downtown girls, hipster girls and girly girls, Betsey Johnson has something for each of you. 

The best part of the presentation was when Betsey Johnson sent her staff of girls and the occasional boys dressed in her clothes at the end  to universal audience support of whistles and clapping.

The designer herself came down the runway and for her trademark finale cartwheel and dragged Patricia Field of Sex and the City fame down the runway with her.

Miss Jay from America's Top Model fame and the ever present, Robert Verdi, were also spotted in the audience.

More photos:

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