Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2012

Chado Ralph Rucci's exquisite tailoring always makes him a favorite at museum fashion exhibitions.  Design students take notes on the signature seaming that dissects the anatomy like a surgeon.

For spring 2012, Mr. Rucci did not disappoint.  The runway was awash with a palette of white, more white and some shades of off-white. Shiny silver was the second big color, with inky grey/black as part of some spot prints as an accent.  Silhouettes were very body conscious.  Separates, dresses, framed the body in ultra-flattering shapes.  The only misstep was the use of clear vinyl in some looks.  It veered dangerously into spaceman costume territory.

The highly polished runway reflected the collection from below so all of the clothes looked like they were glowing from within.  I don't know how much philosophy plays into this designer's creative process, but if there was a church of fashion enlightenment, this would be it.

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Adam Spring 2012

Transparency and pastels.  A few black and white prints thrown in.  Adam Lippes' collection for Spring 2012 was like finding a luxe box of licorice all-sorts.  The sweet pinks and lavender colors were never too sugary as they were used in sleek, well cut silhouettes of pants and jackets.  The dresses were feminine and smart, but never frivolous.  This is a grown-up's version of spring dressing.

Adam has loyal following by the young and chic of the city because the designer produces effortless sportswear for the lifestyle.  According to the website, the brand is inspired by "real women" as opposed to celebrities.  That seems like a no-brainer concept for success, yet it is also a rare one...

More photos:

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Elie Tahari Spring 2012 and Fall 2011 Sample Sale

Merchandised, perpetually wearable, priced appropriately.  The traits that make Elie Tahari a commercial success are often the same reasons that the fashion elite don't consider him a respectable designer.  Customers are very loyal to the brand.  The collections are 'trend-right" and produced very thoughtfully to what the customers want.

One does not hear "innovator" or "trendsetter" associated with the Tahari label.  The color palette for Spring 2012 looked like it was picked directly out of the Pantone list handed to them from a trend agency, (sunburst orange, gold, cream, pale blue).  Femine, sexy, but nothing too risque that would offend their core audience.  Sometimes I wonder if their design meetings are actually focus groups.

You may not find these outfits on a cover of Vogue, but seeing on the backs of tons of successful women in the city seems like the bigger win.

FYI, if you're looking for THIS season's clothes at up to 70% off, check out the TAHARI SAMPLE SALE happening October 18 - 22nd in NYC.  Silky leather jackets will be $279 (down from $998), little black dresses are $129 (down from $398), etc.  There will be menswear, womens, footwear, outerwear, handbags, all the good stuff.

When:                    Monday October 18^th- Saturday October 22^{nd 
                              Tuesday - Friday (8:30 am - 7:30pm) Saturday (10am - 5pm)}

Where:                  501 5^th AVENUE (Entrance 42^nd Street and 5^th Avenue – 2nd Floor)

Phone:                   212-398-2622

Payment:              All major credit cards, cash, no checks

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Theia Spring 2012

Romanced on a bed of roses?  I can't imagine a lovelier way to present a Spring 2012 collection.  With Goddess Chloris as a muse, designer Don O'Neill showed a meticulous collection of gowns and the debut of the Theia day dress line.

Chloris was the Goddess of flowers.  For Theia, this mean light, petal-like transparency. This inspiration was also translated into high tech digitally printed floral fabrics to hand-embroidered blooms on bodices.  A dimensional technique rarely produced in modern textiles was incorporated into an all-over gown.  

The day dresses included flattering seaming, prints, a sorbet color palette, as well as black and white.  Another innovative technique was Mr. O'Neill's use of laser-cut paillettes.  Instead of hard, shiny sequins, fabric was laser-cut into delicate, soft shapes embroidered onto cocktail dresses and gowns.  This resulted in an elaborately textured dress without the heavy weight of typical beads and jewels.

There were gowns of Theia's signature "crunchy" sequins (a mix of over 10 tonal colors giving a rich, dimensional effect), and light-radiating crystal embroidery.  No wonder the siren call of Theia has attracted the likes of Gossip Girl's Leighton Meester (she wore a Theia wedding gown), Taylor Swift and Emmy Rossum.

The designer gave the Ms. FAB team an exclusive interview to describe his work on this season's collection and access to the full show:

photos by Mariana Leung, video by Nicholas Waickman

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Byron Lars Spring 2012

How much of fashion is fantasy?  How do you bring dreams into reality?  My favorite designer Byron Lars just released a surrealist video presentation for his Spring 2012 collection last week. He wanted to democratize the presentation experience by making it accessible to all and at your convenience.  (This is a much appreciated sentiment after the chaos of NY Fashion week). 

The Spring 2012 collection of Byron Lars is presented in dreamy, dramatic fashion with a sense of humor.  The clothes themselves are picking up some of the trends from fall, but with a lighter, updated twist.  Belted jacket and dresses had detailed embroidery or faux leather pailettes.  Ruched chiffon made for voluminous collars, or styled as an alternative to fur (shout-out to PETA members...)

The signature flattering silhouettes with intricate seaming was in play with shirts and shirtdresses.  Prints also made their way into the collection via crocheted fabric mash-ups. Trapunto stitching gave texture to belts and other details.

When you're ready to walk on the wilder side, come join me this side of the moon. 

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NY FASHION WEEK: Richard Chai Spring 2012

Is next spring going to be really chilly?  What's with the blue lips?  I kid of course, I was just happy to see bold makeup when so many other shows displayed nude lips.

I went to school with Richard Chai where he was lovingly called "Richie Rich" (not to be confused with the blond club kid).  He showed graphic contrast stripes and bright colored cottons.  Like many emerging designs graduating to hit brands, he made menswear and womenswear equally important.  The floral prints had a 1980's edge.  They reminded me of the color palette and looks my Mom used to favor when I was a child.  She was a stylin' Mama.

The sportswear separates were flattering and casual.  Exactly what I would want to wear on a typical day in Spring.

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2012

Explode into Spring 2012 with the most patterned, printed and embellished brand on the market.  Custo Barcelona did not disappoint for their Lincoln Center show.  Jackets, skirts, pants, swimwear and dresses were splashed with attention-screaming looks. 

While it doesn't happen that often, menswear was given equal attention.  The runway saw coordinated pairs in a somewhat more neutral palette.  These looks were still bold, but might appeal to a more mainstream audience.  Either that, or obnoxiously cute couples who insist on dressing alike.

The show brought out celebs, from Gossip girl's Matthew Settle , True Blood's Carrie Preston and former contestants of America's Next Top Model.  

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NY FASHION WEEK: Douglas Hannant Spring 2012

Do you love the China Club?  Not the cheesy one in Midtown Manhattan, but the posh one in Hong Kong.  Never been there?  That's ok, Douglas Hannant brought the glamor and elegance of 1930's Shanghai to the famed New York Plaza Thursday.

The designer did not use obvious Chinoiserie motifs in the clothes.  Instead, he evoked the atmosphere of the era in the bamboo backdrop.  The silhouettes were modern updates of classic silhouettes as seen in the gowns, sheaths and suits.  Mr. Hannant used the most luxurious fabrics available.

Douglas Hannant doesn't pander to Hollywood or red carpet dressing.  He prefers to concentrate on dressing his loyal clientele of socialites and grande ladies of the city.  His boutique is nestled right next to the famous Warren Tricomi salon at the Plaza.  Edward  Tricomi of the salon explained his direction for the styling was for classic hairstyles updated with extra volume and crimping.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Vera Wang 2012

The queen of all things bridal, Vera Wang showed a breezy spring collection at Lincoln Center this week. I meant breezy in a literal sense.  A fan blew the chiffon tails of the multiple short/long hems of dresses on the runway.  

The collection was very pretty, more avant-garde than one would expect from this designer known for classic elegance. There was an interesting use of seaming and bound edges.  The colors and fabrics suggested daywear, but the silhouettes definitely cried out for eveningwear.  The were a lot of prints that looked like a melting painting that was edgy for Vera Wang.  Variations on the bubble skirt and the leg revealing hems with flowing trains came up again and again.  If you were not a fan of the prints, you had your pick of bright sun yellow, pistachio, raspberry and neutrals of taupe and cream.

  

The front row notables of this show were one of the most diverse of the week...Top fashion editors Grace Coddington and Joe Zee were in attendance.  Kim Kardashian was on the other side.  Right before the show started, a hush came over the audience as a team of guards escorted Beyonce Knowles into the tent.  Most impressive for me however, was former Secretary of State Madeline Albright.  (Her granddaughter Ellie won tickets and chose grandma as her date). 

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NY FASHION WEEK: Zang Toi Spring 2012

Dreaming of Marrakech. Malaysian designer Zang Toi was inspired by a journey to North Africa for his Spring 2012 collection. He took influences from the desert for the rich browns and the deep sapphire blue from the night sky. There were a few djeballa type silhouettes included as a nod to traditional Moroccan attire. There were gold appliques in motifs inspired by Moroccan architecture that adorned gowns and capes.

Besides travel muses, the collection was, as always, pure luxury. Zang Toi always chooses the most posh of silks and other fabrics. Every look exudes elegance and sophistication. There were a few cream and black ensembles appropriate for the day that were beautiful, but the guests here reserve their applause for his big gowns.

Kirstie Alley, most recently a favorite on Dancing with the Stars walked out as a Diva of Lincoln Center in the show finale. The burly guys of the photographers pit had been taking bets on her shape and size prior to the show, so it was satisfying to see her look gorgeous.

The ever charming Mr. Toi gave the Ms.FAB team an exclusive interview, our video will be up soon...

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NY Fashion Week: LAMB Spring 2012 by Gwen Stefani

 Are YOU just a girl?  If so, you had plenty of fun, casual options for Spring 2012.  The Gwen Stefani helmed collection showed quietly in the small 'box' studio of Lincoln Center without the designer.  In previous seasons, her shows were big, celebrity-filled paparazzi-bait.

The clothing did not show a distinct theme, and you didn't really see the pop star's distinct personality in this collection as you would from the previous seasons.  What you did see were bright colors is solid separates or variations on stripes and zig zags of primary colors.  Other separates included neutrals in 1980's styling.

I was much more impressed with the handbag selection at this show.  Several bags had a sunburst-like seaming and braided handle.  Another series had cut strips of leather as a variation to fringe which was clever.

The models were styled with simple informal ponytails, dark eyeliner and neutral lips.  I thought they would at least style them with Stefani's signature red lipstick.  Again, this show just didn't feel like it had Ms. Gwen's stamp on it, so it ended up as one of the blur of collections this season.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Rebecca Minkoff Spring 2012

She's the girl next door, just much more stylish than the rest of your neighbors.  Rebecca Minkoff sent a light, breezy spring collection down the runway that any girl should want.  There were lots of easy, floral prints and bright Spring colors.  Dresses and skirts were flirty. Relaxed pants were paired with semi-tailored blouses or fitted, shrunken leather jackets.

Handbags included updated versions of her MAB (Morning After Bag) complete with designer branded condoms and vodka for guests at their seats. (How tongue in cheek is that?)  Warm leathers, studs, a little edgier than the clothes to balance the soft femininity of the looks.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Betsey Johnson Spring 2012

The Betsey Johnson show is one I most look forward to every season. Is it the fond memories of college? Or the fact that these are clothes I fantasized about wearing as an adult when I was eight years old?  I wasn't alone in this anticipation as other female photographers in the pit with me had the same giddyness prior to the show.  Whatever the reason, Betsey Johnson represents fun, flirty femmes.

For Spring 2012, our ageless Betsey sent some Punk/Goth Lolitas with a tongue-in-cheek take on skulls and bones. There were duo-sided skull prints, anatomically correct embroidered rib cage corsets and romantic floral skeleton prints.  Black and zippered tops and dresses.  Super bright pouf dresses were mixed with English garden rose prints in flowing long gowns.

The models were sassy, curvy and had a naughty attitude about them that told the men in the audience who was in charge.  Bright red lips with curls styled to the side had a hint of burlesque beauty.

Flamboyant fashion personalities Nicki Minaj and Johnny Weir sat front row to enjoy the festivities.  Of course, no show without Betsey's finale cartwheel, which she did (at age 70) and even ended with split.  She also gave credit to her daughter who more or less runs the 'bones' of the operation these days.

Always a party, models came out with big metallic balloons to celebrate the collection at the end.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Cynthia Rowley Spring 2012

All that shines here is gold.  Cynthia Rowley brought her tongue-in-cheek contemporary dressing to Lincoln center yesterday with a gilded flair.  It started with a shiny gold runway that was being polished by multiple people prior to the show.

Silhouettes were fit and flared with skirts and dresses above the knee.  There was a black and gold grouping with graphic Aztec-inspired prints or more Baroque gold embellishment prints.  There was a lighter gold and cream grouping with more solid knits.

My favorite was the abstract, painterly floral print that looked like it was splattered across charmeuse and satin.  The florals were a mix of bright spring colors against a black or cream backdrop.

Cynthia Rowley not only gave good "runway", she was there to service her fellow fashionistas.  Parked outside the fashion week venue was the "Glambulance" to fix fashion malfunctions, cover up blisters with embellished band-aids and rescue beauty emergencies.

Spotted in the front row: Lindsay Lohan, Hamish Bowles

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NY FASHION WEEK: BCBG Spring 2012

Max Azria's brought simple dressing to the forefront for spring 2012. By simple dressing, I mean garment after garment of flat panels hanging off shoulders, swing silhouettes, and an avoidance of sleeves at any cost...

Look after look contained big easy shapes that looked like it could be one-size-fits-all flowing off the body. I wondered if the design team or pattern makers were going for ultimate comfort or were just too lazy to fit anything to the body this season.

There was lots of color blocking in royal blue, turquoise, yellow and orange. Big contrasting colors with prints that had tribal inspiration, but were vague about which culture's tribe. They were more of an updated, digital version of a lost civilization.

If you indulged too much over the holiday season, but still want to make a bold entrance next spring, you wouldn't find a more forgiving collection than BCBG.

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NY FASHION WEEK: TSE Cashmere Spring 2012

When spring and summer come around, do you think cozy cashmere?  If you don’t, the Spring 2012 collection for Tse Cashmere will make you reconsider.  The edited presentation at their Soho boutique was clean and knits were feather light.

The sportswear had easy silhouettes.  The superfine gauge sweaters looked like chiffon ready for the beach.  There were a few ultraglam draped dresses appropriate for when an evening gown is needed.  Separates included delicate cardigans paired with structured skirts.

The color palettes had shades of blue and steel grey.  Cream was also mixed with warm peach for a sunnier look. 

If your wardrobe is crying out for staples from very fine yarn, this is the collection for you.

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Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2012

Holiday as a luxe Bohemian or an elegant sailor.  The Salvatore Ferragamo presentation for Resort 2012 brought together luxurious representations of both archetypes Tuesday evening.  Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti channeled the 1930's in long draped silhouettes, beaded fringe and embroidery for evening.    For day looks, stripes, high-waisted pants and peacoats showed of the maritime influence.  The nautical palette of antique silver, pale blue satin, navy and cream evoked a vacation set at sea.  Techniques of pleating, ropes and satin added to the retro sophistication.

Handbags featured mirror-lined clutches in velvet.  Octogon shapes made their way into sunglasses and bracelets.  The naval theme was further represented in the captain’s hats and jeweled rope necklines.  Shoes featured details like mosaic heels and tortoise plexi.

The runway show itself was presented in grand style in the historic James B. Duke mansion on the Upper East Side of Manhattan.  The models walked past a dramatic staircase, through drawing rooms and library.  The home once belonged to famed socialite Doris Duke.  Classic crooners with a narrated soundtrack recalled fashion shows of a posh past.  Celebrities included Eva Mendes, Freida Pinto, Ashley Greene and Minka Kelly.


Watch the show:

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Aussie Fashion Week: Josh Goot Fall 2011

Get ready for some style Down Under.  Australian Fashion Week was under way and designer Josh Goot was no wallflower.  Short dresses and short skirts with an occasional slim pant were demonstrated the color block trend in the extreme.  The graphic printed shapes were designed to flatter the female form.  Black and white optical prints achieved a similar bold effect.

The designer got his start studying media and production, but soon realized he would rather channel his talents into fashion.  He got his big break winning Tiffany & Co.'s Young Designer of the Year in Australia. He has since garnered International attention and landed the cover of Womens Wear Daily.

If you're looking for an outfit bold enough to keep the wallabies away, Josh Goot is your man.

Photos by Marcio Madeira

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Hologram Fashion Show by Burberry Fall 2011 Beijing

Traditional-minded British brand Burberry wowed celebrity guests and fashionistas at their Beijing Launch this week.  One of the many luxury labels cashing in on China's billionaires, the brand presented the collection with an awesome holographic runway.  Hot English artist Keane (creative director Christopher Bailey is a fan) also performed for ecstatics guests.  This was an amazing example of integrating technology, style and spectacle for a memorable fashion event.

The video above is just a taste.  If you want to see the full fabulous show, follow through here. 

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L.A. Fashion Week: Gypsy 05 Fall 2011

Launched in 2005 by sister/brother team Osi and Dotan Shoham, Gypsy 05has become a line favored by celebrities like Kare Hudson, Jessica Alba, Amanda Seyfried and Miley Cyrus.  And, Gypsy 05 is not just for the girls, with a line for men that has been well received.  Their Fall 2011 line was attended by quite a few celebs, including Glee cast members Mark Criss and Dot-Marie Jones.

Epitomizing the Los Angeles life style, Gypsy 05 has gained wide appeal as a line that is easy-to-wear, comfortable and still extremely fashionable.  With an emphasis on being eco-friendly, the company produces a line of organic and natural fabrics uniquely dyed in their own dye house.

Showing at Style Fashion Week LA, Gypsy 05’s Collection has a definite bohemian feel to it.  Flowing maxi dresses, reminiscent of the hippie culture of the 60’s, mixed together with their personal styling of classic sportswear pieces for men and women, from chinos and unstructured jackets to chunky sweaters and lace tops.  Modern takes on tie-dye highlight the collection as do ombré dyed sweaters and silks.  Silhouettes are relaxed and casual with an emphasis on layering with contrasting colors and prints.  The must have accessories of the collection are the richly dyed scarves, shown layered on both men and women.

This season’s show proved that Osi and Dotan Shoham continue to mature as designers, taking the line to the next level.  It also reminds us that Gypsy 05 is a line to keep one’s eye on!

Video by Omri Escalante

Reported by Mdivani Monroe of Ladies Who Lunch Travel

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