Alexander Berardi Spring 2011

At 24, he was the youngest designer to show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week this season.  His youth, however, did not hamper him in presenting a nice solid collection that also shows the promise of what is to come.

Inspired by Jean Seberg in the Goddard film "Breathless", Berardi took the nouvelle vague look and translated it to Hamptons chic, naming his presentation "Breathless is a Tribe Called Hamptons". Having grown up on the Upper East Side, the Hamptons is a subject this Parsons grad knows all too well.  There was a definite nautical influence in his daywear, derived from plays on the marinière shirts worn by Segerg in "Breathless" in the form of shirts, dresses, and chiffon capelets.  Trenches, both long and short were big, including a stunner with the bottom half of the trench all in pleats.  Light and breezy chiffon dresses, shorts, cargo pants and even harem pants helped round out the collection which I expect to see pop up all over the Hamptons next Summer with a color palette focused on navy, white, khaki, black and gold.

For evening, Mr. Berardi presented separates and gowns that while still being "Hamptons" relaxed and wearable, were also chicly elegant with a touch of 1930's glamour to them.  From gold sequined shorts and skirts and sexy gold sequined gown to sleekly draped black gowns, Berardi shows that he can bring it on.

Having grown up in the world he is catering to, Mr. Berardi  knows exactly what they want and is giving it to them in his own style.

Reported by Mdivani Monroe of Ladies Who Lunch Travel

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Buckler Spring 2011

Buckler’s Spring 2011 Collection was inspired by the German modernists’ school, Bauhaus, and the 1924 Olympics.

Both the Bauhaus and the 1924 Olympics represent ardent optimism and a belief in the future. Buckler’s collection is influence by the Bauhaus principle ”less is more” using linens and cottons in the color palette old white, navy, silver grey, red and khaki with minimalistic stripe details and different colored collars. The looks were complimented with bags from The Madly.

Buckler’s collection presented shorts, polos, shirts, blazers and jackets with interesting minimalistic details like striped pattern and different colored collars for the young modern man.

Reported By Sonja Leix of Women's Mafia.  Photos by Ritika Wahal.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Perry Ellis Spring 2011

Take a swing at the country club mate?  The Spring 2011 men's collection from Perry Ellis projected a leisurely lifestyle.  Pastels, genteel cottons.  Cardigans and cable sweaters dominated the knit offerings.  Casual jackets looked great in tonal light colors.

On everyone's seat was a white polo shirt from Perry Ellis.  Just a happy gift?  No, it goes deeper than that.  The shirts were offered to raise awareness of Project Beach.  Both the show and the project were produced to raise funds to aid in the BP oil spill recovery efforts.  The initiative is a Facebook campaign inviting you to purchase the shirt to support the restoration.

Designer John Crocco took a happy, calm bow at the end of the show.  

Spotted in the Front Row: Nigel Barker, Fern Mallis, Anthony Rapp

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NY FASHION WEEK: Tibi Spring 2011

Tibi led with a ladylike frock coat and continued with simple, pared-down knit and eyelet looks in white, camel and saffron. The aesthetic and mood was one of preppy femininity.

Most of the looks were paired with flats or wedges, suggesting that the Tibi woman is independent, beautiful, well-tailored and comfortable.

Some of the pieces that got more daring were the dalmation print tops and pants. The looks got more delicious as the show progressed, with mustard and creme looks with floral and beaded applique well incorporated into the pieces. Though it was simple I was most attracted to a white silk camisole and long knit skirt with pockets and a long creamy silk pantsuit paired with a short knit jacket, both of which looked rich, sumptuous and perfect for elegant lounging.

-Reported by Marcy Clark, founds of Women's Mafia .

Photos by Imaxtree.  

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NY FASHION WEEK: Rebecca Moses Spring 2011 Fairy Tale

"I Love to tell a story...Fashion is such a colorful tale" -Rebecca Moses

This set the tone for Rebecca Moses return from Europe to show in New York after 20 years.  The Lincoln center box was decked out like a giant walk-in storybook.  Models posed against illustrated backdrops and over-sized library books.  It had a whimsical Alice In Wonderland feel that guests were sucked right into (in a good way).  Very few fashion week presentations manage to transport you out of your environment.  

The clothes were flirty, fun and looked distinctly European.  Polka dots and leopard spots were a prominent theme.  The coquette is a term rarely heard stateside but definitely applied here.  Unlike the whites, creams and tan I saw at countless other shows, Rebecca Moses brought out the citron, peony and mauve.  There were cute coordinated suits, flirty dresses and bubble skirts.

Accessories included whimsical hairpieces, chunky bracelets and novelty necklaces.

photos by Mariana Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Betsey Johnson Spring 2011

She's the designer many little girls want to grow up to be (I'm wayyy past little girl and I still want to grow up to be Betsey).  Her brand of fun, party, dress-up clothes are for the Barbie-doll in all of us.  

Fun and fabulous floral prints decked the summer looks.  Pairs of ironic sailor outfits, skater girls and dramatically poufed tulle skirts bounced down the runway.

Accessories included everything from captain's hats, headbands, skateboards and sunglasses.  The show was really a show.  There were rows of girls dancing, then a taxi-themed parade at the end of flag-waving models.

At 68, Ms. Johnson is as energetic as ever.  She rode a bicycle down the runway for the finale and did not disappoint with her signature cartwheels.  The difference between now and the shows I watched growing up, she hugged her daughter and granddaughter during the finale too. 

Spotted in the front row: Fergie

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NY FASHION WEEK: Pamella Roland Spring 2011

Who doesn't love a vacation to the Greek Isles?  Pamella Roland's spring 2011 collection was inspired by your recent travels to the Mediterranean. The presentation was broken down into looks specific to each island and included postcard images to accompany them in the program.  

The fishtail and (fishscale layered chiffon appliques) evoked the ocean views of Santorini.  Crystal embroidery embellished the necklines or bodices of dresses inspired by Mykonos. The silhouettes could be sexy and fitted or easy and draped.  The strategic use of beading and jewels were elegant, but not over the top.

Gorgeous jewels from Chopard enhanced the Upper East Side mannequins.  Ms. Roland is a board member of the Whitney Museum of American Art.  The museum setting was perfect for a collection presented at works of art.  

I loved the fantasy fashion of Marchesa, but Pamella Roland designs the gowns that real women aspire to wear.  These will be the gowns seen and purchased for galas and fundraisers in this zip code for the next few years.  

Spotted in the front row mingling: Hillary Swank

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Gottex Spring 2011

A sunrise was a beautiful prelude to another stunning swimwear collection for Gottex, Spring 2011. The line featured inovative shapes with rich embellishment and new fabrics to create looks that fuse technology and luxury.

The new Spring collection shaped the female body using criss cross lines, high-waist bottoms with belts, bandeau swimsuits and one piecers with interesting cut-outs. Cover ups have been re-invented: Long flowing printed silk capes and dresses that are worn underneath or tucked into the suit.

Luxury for the hot season at it’s highest form with rich use of rock embellishment, sequins and crystal embroidery especially on the more glamorous pieces such as the wet look and metallic swimsuits.

The only question left to ask is: When will there be Red Carpet Poolside Events I can wear this to?

Reported by Sonia Leix of Women's Mafia:

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK:Zang Toi Spring 2011

Ride 'em Cowboy.  That, and other more obscene catcalls were shouted when Zang Toi sent out a shirtless male cowboy first down the runway.  The designer's Spring 2011 collection was inspired by the James Dean movie "Giant". 

The show showed tailored shirt, upscale denim, Western prints and prairie floral prints in very full skirts.  The Texan rancher looks were a big departure from what I have known from Zang Toi.  However, the 'femme' looks of full dresses and blossom embroidered gowns were more what I was expected.

Accessories included the cowboy hats on the models and period-inspired jewelry.  Otherwise, the eye-candy included the cowboys, as I suspect Zang Toi hasn't officially announced a true menswear line.

Spotted in the front row: Kelly Choi, Ramona Singer

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NY Fashion Week: L.A.M.B. Spring 2011 by Gwen Stefani

Hey Baby, hey baby hey!  Gwen Stefani's Spring 2011 was a cheerful collection of African prints, breezy island silhouettes and animal patterns. Ruffles were a regular detail, as were asymmetrical shoulders. There were menswear-inspired jackets and pants in contrast to the lighter sun dresses.

This was one of the few shows that really felt like a party/night out.  It definitely had my favorite music selections of NY Fashion Week...Depeche Mode, Marilyn Manson, No Doubt.

The accessories include a range of fedora styled hats.  Noir Jewelry (another of my favorites) was tasked with creating ethnic-inspired pieces for the show.  A tribal necklace and over-sized cuffs were seen.  The L.A.M.B. handbags were roomy, big purses with animal prints. 

Spotted in the front row: Gavin Rossdale, Debbie Harry, Spice Girl Mel B., Christian Siriano

Taking the bow on the runway with Mommy: Kingston Rossdale

photos by Mariana Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Tse Cashmere with Jason Wu Spring 2011

Luxury cashmere. That's what the Tse brand was always known for.  They owned the sophisticated cashmere knit customer, but were never the go-to collection for high-fashion.  

They have attempted to change that by hiring hot designer Jason Wu for a specialized collection.  His collaboration brought in a flattering brush-stroke print and a graphic delicate crochet pattern to the mix for Spring.  My favorite piece was the tubes of chiffon knit into a chunky sweater.  Does this make Tse a major fashion player?  I'm not sure.  I never bought Tse because it was the trendiest item.  I bought Tse for it's high quality fine cashmere pieces that would be timeless.

The regular Tse collection was as expected.  Neutrals with some bolder blues.  Elegant, updated classics.  What I did not expect to see was the domination of woven pieces.  I always thought of Tse as a knitwear brand.  As someone who would prefer to live in lightweight sweaters year-round, it was a little disappointing.

Accessories included chunky silver cuffs.  A statement necklace in silver.  Shoes were wide-strapped high heeled sandals.

Mingling: Jason Wu was on hand to describe his vision.

photographs by Mariana Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Vivienne Tam Spring 2011

Springtime for the East.  Vivienne Tam made her mark bringing a tongue-in-cheek vision of Chinnoiserie and Asian motifs to fashion.  In her book, China Chic, the designer talks about iconic themes and the color of red.  This season however, I did not see any of that for Spring 2011.

What I did see was a pretty collection of muted blue and cream.  Lace details and eyelet, some crochet.  There were no literal references to her signature Eastern themes, but the design aesthetic came through in more subtle ways.  The result was a lovely show of feminine ensembles that were perfect for play or dress-up.

Spotted in the front row: Serena Williams, Denise Richards, Kelly Choi

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NY FASHION WEEK: Marchesa Spring 2011

Pure fantasy.  Retailers and media love to sing the praises of wearability (make that $aleability), but that isn't very entertaining.  The Marchesa collection was appropriately displayed at the Chelsea Art Museum Wednesday.  The gown were sculpted works of art.  Innovative embroideries with stones, beading and horsehair stroked the imaginations of the most jaded fashion observer.

The elaborate jewels and beading was carried through into the accessories.  Clutches, headpieces and shoes were encrusted with riches. 

Will you see anyone getting out of the subway with any of these pieces?  Highly unlikely.  Then again, the average subway rider is not Marchesa's prime market.  The target woman here seems to be the Red Carpet starlet (usually from the ranks of  current Weinstein Company films).  Is there anything wrong with that?  Of course not.  I am just happy to see that there are still American designers who can inspire unattainable glamour.

Spotted in the front row Mingling: Harvey Weinstein, Tinsley Mortimer, Jessica Szohr

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NY FASHION WEEK: Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2011

All hail ladylike dressing.  I am really happy to see that several designers have brought grace back to New York.  Bibhu Mohapatra's spring collection had a variety of elegant silhouettes that brought you back to classic Hollywood.  Long gowns and short day dresses had fabric or embroidered treatments. The more restrained textural fabric appliqués blurred the line between day and evening.  The brush-stroke prints gave an artistic look to garments and was appropriate to the gallery box setting.

Over-sized 1960's sunglasses and retro-hats added to the vintage Hollywood feel that much more.  Black and nude heels finished off a sophisticated ensemble.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Nautica Spring 2011

Where is the genteel man?  Nautica's Spring 2011 presentation tried to bring him to you.  The menswear collection showed casual, variations on soft blazers paired with simple knits and woven shirts.  Faded plaids were key as were clean, neutral shorts and pants.  The overall effect was the wardrobe of a relaxed, upscale weekender.  

Swimwear had a different direction.  The beach looks consisted of color blocks and sailing flag motifs.  This is the only category where I saw the brand's nautical theme.  I did not see any of the signature outerwear containing the mariner styling or trims of past seasons.  Is this the sign of the brand's new direction?

What I can say is that there was attention paid to the details and the fit looked great.  I think that the design team and technical designers are clearly underpaid... (Full disclosure, I was a former employee). 

Why a new direction?  One reason might be that the current Nautica fan is very hard to define.  The day of the show, the men I observed wearing Nautica in the street included a food delivery man from Honduras and a retiree from Virginia.  Sail on my friends.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Georges Chakra - Spring 2011

Bring on the parade of red carpet dresses... Georges Chakra has dressed many a celebrity with his entrance-making dresses.  His collection for Spring 2011 was built to do it again.  His interior design roots could be seen from the architectural details down the runway.  There were constructed basket-weave details and pieced, shirred sheaths.  There were dresses with stacked cording.  Fabrics were flowing and chiffon or had shine and metallic.  There were a goddess-styled gowns with ombre and draped styling.  

Spotted in the front row: Kelly Rowland, Dania Ramirez

Photos by Ritika W.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Prabal Garung Spring 2011

Design talent Prabal Garung's show on Saturday was highly anticipated by every editor in the front row.

Prabal started his collection off with classic cream and whites punched with pale coral prints than switching to bright saffron, crimson, turmeric with slashes of aquamarine. Black, figure hugging satin jackets had unexpected slash and cut techniques.

Long, floor length silk dresses were trimmed with cascading asymmetrical ribbon.  Fabric cutouts accentuated slim figures and tiny waists. For those who love black, there were refreshing takes on the LBD.  My favorite was a long black number with an asymmetrical cascading mother of pearl appliqué over the shoulder. The crowd favorite was the transparent top with strategic textured black appliqué work.

Pencil skirts in lengths below the knee seemed to be the key separate for this collection.  Other pieces were memorable for details such as rubberized silk/organza fringes on dresses.

Prabal had it all.  Modern updates on classic silhouettes.  This is an investment collection. What that means to me is that if you can only afford one thing for Spring 2011, it would be a piece from from Prabal. I plan to skip my cocktails for a chance to buy that heavenly top.

Spotted in the front row: Rachel Zoe, Robert Verdi

Photos and reporting by Ritika W.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Thuy Spring 2011

The Spring 2011 collection by Thuy Diep came from a warm color palette.  The runway showed taupe, mustards, sunburnt orange and antique ivory.  Detailed separates inserted delicate ruffles in creative ways.  Dresses used piecing and seaming to flattering effect.

Shoes mainly stuck to casual sandals, sunglasses adorned many of the models with windblown hair.  The overall effect was a casual, laid-back look that was still pulled together.  My takeaway was this season's Thuy customer was a confident woman who liked to walk in the sun...

Photos by Mdivani Monroe of Ladies Who Lunch TV

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NY FASHION WEEK: Cynthia Rowley Spring 2011

This is always one of the shows I look forward to.  Cynthia Rowley has always represented girly, flirty fun clothes with a sense of humor.  This collection did not disappoint.  The major theme for Spring 2011 was circles.  This came in three-dimensional cabochon appliqués in different sizes or the opposite; perforated circular holes.

The color palette reminded me of licorice all-sorts which fit the candy-dots effect of the cabochons.  The circular holes in the garments also reminded me of the old Lollipop building that used to be across from Columbus circle (now the Museum of Arts and Design).  Was this a nod to the show's Lincoln Center location?

Cynthia Rowley paid a more direct tribute to the new Fashion Week location's performing arts roots in using sets from the NYC Ballet's "Swan Lake" and "Romeo and Juliet".  Ms. Rowley is a fan.

Wouldn't you know it?  Just as klutzy Ms. FAB sat down, she cut her wrist on her own jewelry and had to use the dress-up band-aids that were placed on each seat...

Spotted in the front row:  Alan Cumming, Rebecca Romijn

For more looks, see the slideshow below:

Photos by Mariana L.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Adam Lippes Spring 2011

Clean and pretty.  That seems to be what many of the better designers are striving for next Spring.  Adam Lippes' show on Saturday afternoon worked to express the juxtaposition of delicate lace and chiffon against structured pieces.

The designer used Charlotte Gainsbourg as a muse, inspired by her character in the film "The City of Your Final Destination."   The clothing showed meticulous attention to the details.  Embroidery, eyelet, tiny ruffles and a soft color palette defined the collection's overall focus.

The shoes were bolder and brighter.  Mostly wide strapped sandals with very tall heels.
Spotted in the front row: All the usual suspects fashion editors
See the slideshow below for the full collection:

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