Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2012

Chado Ralph Rucci's exquisite tailoring always makes him a favorite at museum fashion exhibitions.  Design students take notes on the signature seaming that dissects the anatomy like a surgeon.

For spring 2012, Mr. Rucci did not disappoint.  The runway was awash with a palette of white, more white and some shades of off-white. Shiny silver was the second big color, with inky grey/black as part of some spot prints as an accent.  Silhouettes were very body conscious.  Separates, dresses, framed the body in ultra-flattering shapes.  The only misstep was the use of clear vinyl in some looks.  It veered dangerously into spaceman costume territory.

The highly polished runway reflected the collection from below so all of the clothes looked like they were glowing from within.  I don't know how much philosophy plays into this designer's creative process, but if there was a church of fashion enlightenment, this would be it.

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Custo Barcelona - Fall 2011

The attitude was wild and brash.  David and Custodio Dalmau’s show for Custo Barcelona is one of the most anticipated during fashion week for its vibrant outlook.   For me, it was the first time seeing them live on the runway.  My eyes were blinded from the swirling patterns.

There were several pieces that evolved from last Fall’s ‘it’ item, the fur vest.  For the upcoming season, there was a feathered, halter vest, looped wool jacket, layered faux fur stripe cape and stripes of bleached white.  Their signature mix of prints this season included 1960’s geometrics mixed with electric paisley for a Bohemian look.  Metallic animal prints were combined with swirling knits that took you easily from Ibiza to Goa and then back to the city again.

Fashion designers tend to have 'runway' looks that are purely editorial.  By the time the pieces trickle down to the stores, the looks are tame and less theatrical.

Seeing the Custo Barcelona shops in Madrid last month, I can attest that this is one label where that does not apply.  What you see is what you get. 

Photos by Ritika Wahal

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NY Fashion Week: Norman Ambrose Fall 2011

Norman Ambrose embodied the Luxe Life in his Fall Winter 2011 collection with vignettes reminiscent of classic Vogue or Bazaar photo spreads. Furs, silks, feathers, hand appliquéd beading were enticingly incorporated with premium knits and delicate fabrics for the woman who is both a woman of leisure and the CEO.

The show was divided into two sides, with daywear on the left and evening wear on the right.

Some of my favorite touches – on the daytime side wool suiting with gold threads and Snakeskin Pants that can go anywhere.  On the evening side – sleek, flattering, modest cuts and the subtle use of luxurious accents that some designers overuse – sheer mesh with beading and a well-placed row of feathers around the knee of a long sequined gown.

Photos and Reporting by Marcy Clark of Women's Mafia

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NY Fashion Week: Luca Luca Fall 2011

Autumn brights hit the runway at the Luca Luca show.  A palette of warm gold, fushia, rust were mixed with more dressy black, silver and white.  The silhouettes were flattering and ladylike.  The pants were slim, pencil skirts, demure blouses.  Evening looks included flowing floor length skirts. A few pieces were elegantly embroidered with beading along the neck or waistline.

Spotted in the front row: Supermodels Carol Alt, Irina Pataeva

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