Tuesday, April 5, 2011
CFDA's Celebrity Fashion Auction for Japan
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Strut the Sidewalk Catwalk on Broadway
A lot of attention has been paid by the media in saving New York's Garment Center. Local Organizations like Save the Garment Center, the CFDA and Made In Midtown have been fighting to keep New York’s fashion industry intact with local manufacturers.
This week through the September 3rd, New York designers are taking this fight to the streets. The pedestrian-friendly parts of Broadway between 35th street and 42nd street will be home to the Sidewalk Catwalk.
Thirty top American designers and student teams have created original mannequins attired in a signature look. The lineup includes icons like Diane Von Furstenburg, Isaac Mizrahi and Donna Karan. New guard designers, Prabal Garung and Jason Wu are represented as well. Many of these designers, like Nanette Lepore manufacture their clothing in New York as a vital part of their business.
In addition to the exhibit, the original artwork for the mannequins is being auctioned to benefit Materials For the Arts. The organization donates supplies and support for arts programs in schools.
Care to take home a piece of garment center history? Bid here.
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| Sidewalk Catwalk |
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
FAB Exclusive: Bibhu Mohapatra Studio Tour
I met that designer last month at the National Arts Club. He was being honored as a “Young Innovator”. He had two pieces on display, which were simply sublime, and luckily, we had a chance to see these at his studio again. His name is Bibhu Mohapatra.
Vogue named him one of the “New Guards” of fashion. The CFDA awarded him a coveted space at the Fashion Incubator among other up-and-coming designers like House of Waris, Alice Ritter and Prabal Garung. I was invited for a behind the ‘seams’ studio tour before his trip to India.
Bibhu greeted us promptly at 3:00 PM for our interview before apologizing to check in on a fitting. I was excited to have a few minutes alone to delve into his Fall 2010 collection and explore the pieces individually. The first test of a good quality garment is to look the inside of the piece. A good design is as beautifully constructed inside as it is outside, and his collection was beautifully executed.
As we walked into the studio, a dressmaker was meticulously hand sewing geometric pieces on a gossamer evening gown. The yellow dress was stunning, and light as a summer day. It instantly reminded me of Katherine Hepburn...
I asked Bibhu about it in our interview:
Bibhu M: It’s from our Spring 2010 collection. It was inspired by x-rays. The ability to look through them. This is dress is being made for a client - a mother of the bride.
MsFAB: How many sketches/designs does each collection start with? I remember from FIT that we had to do hundreds of mini sketches to develop ideas for each collection.
BM: Each story starts with 300-400 sketches and these are distilled to 26-27 pieces.
Depending on the inspiration, I have specific pieces in mind, then I sketch. Sometimes the material is so beautiful, we design based on it “ outside in “ with shapes and fabrication.
Take simplest fabric and create texture out of it. Create dimension and geometry.
MsF: Are you a draper or a patternmaker. (for our readers, designers essentially like to drape on a ‘body’ or dress form or they like to make patterns on papers and then make the piece. Both M and I are drapers)
BM: I am a draper. This piece for example had 39 different pieces! A pattern production nightmare.
MsF:How do you balance creativity/design and making your collections sell thru?
BM: We are sensitive when we price these products. We definitely do not make it cheaply!
Fashion is a business. Fashion without commerce is just art. It should be a viable business and striking a balance is key.
MsF: How do you like your new space provided thru the Incubator program. You had mentioned your former studio was on the west side?
BM: This space is amazing. It’s nearly three times bigger. We are in here for two years.
MsF: What piece was the one you loved most?
BM: This shirt is my favorite from the collection.
(The designer pulled out a simple, boxy shaped silk and wool inset top in muted shades of navy and brown .The fabric was light with a mod look)
MsF: The fabrics are so beautiful. Did your days with J. Mendel help get contacts and where are your fabrics sourced.
BM: The fabrics are from Japan, Italy and Asia. Yes, I do have access to European mills and developed relationships with them. Working at J.Mendel definitely helped.
MsF: Who were your favorite or influential professors at Fashion Institute of Technology as you studied design there?
BM: Professor Joe Maria and Professor Diorio. She was so very good to all of us and made me work harder. She always knew if the pins on the muslin were not in perfectly!
MsF: Professor Diorio was my professor too! It turns out we were at FIT at nearly the same time and had Professor Diorio. What was your inspiration for Fall 2010 collection?
BM: Fall 2010 is lots of plush clothing. Velvets. Definitely furs. Lots of old world glamour and is also about practicality and purpose.
(Bibhu pulled an anorak from Fall 2010 with fur lining which in production will have a rainproof reversible shell.)
MsF: What is one piece of advice you would give to someone starting out?
BM: Just be aware of working as a team. Everyone deserves equal amounts of respect.
MsF: Please tell us who are your ideal muse(s)? I know you mentioned you want to dress Frida Pinto.
BM: I would like to dress her – Frida Pinto.
Lauren Santo Domingo (contributing editor of Vogue magazine) is a constant muse in my mind. She helps style my shows.
Cate Blanchett – her personality and dress meet in the middle and meld. It’s a happy union of craft and person. The dress does not wear her.
Tilda Swinton – it’s all about her persona.
At 4:00 PM, a blonde with an enviable size 0 figure walked in for her fitting for a dress I had been eyeing. Bibhu went into work mode. He came in between the fitting to continue speaking with us to share favorite books from his library.
I thanked Mr. Mohapatra for the interviews. Bibhu replied with a smile, “ How about making it dinner. I will get the fish from Jackson Heights – hilsa”. Fantastic! I planned to soon make an authentic Bengali dinner for Bibhu.
I walked out lusting every piece in his elegant Fall 2010 collection and was charmed by the man driven by purity of design and respect for others.
The next week, I was in Soho covering a different story when I ran into one of Bibhu’s muses on Mercer Street – Tilda Swinton!
I quickly walked over, introduced myself and informed her of our meeting with Bibhu and that she was an inspiration to him. Playing fashion matchmaker, I asked if we would be able to get her connected to him somehow? She said, “Yes, I will have someone look into it and get back to you” and took our card.
Ms.Swinton – if you are reading us in Europe, we are certain you will fall in love with his work!
As they say, there is still a bit of luck and magic left in this city. If you see Ms. Swinton wearing Bibhu Mohapatara, I will feel like my fashion fairy dust has succeeded…
Photos by Mariana L.
Friday, June 4, 2010
Made In Midtown - Keep Fashion in NYC!
Yesterday afternoon, the Design Trust and CFDA launched Made In Midtown, a program focusing on reviving the local garment industry. In a press conference and exhibit, Debra Martone voiced the mission of the non-profit organization, "A study of the fashion industry, how the Garment District works today, and why it’s an integral part of New York City’s economy, identity, and sense of place."
The exhibit itself consisted of examples of locally made garments, patterns and videos. Designers who produce locally were featured, like Jason Wu, Nanette Lapore and Anna Sui. While I was underwhelmed at the exhibit itself, I am really rooting for this program to succeed.
Any designer who doesn't have the huge numbers to produce mass market overseas, or just cares to keep your team and industry close to home should be invested in the findings. In the early part of the 20th century, 95% of garments sold in the U.S. were produced in the Garment district. While that may not be possible ever again, there are many manufacturers who still do produce locally and many who wish to.
Photo from Made in Midtown
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
CFDA's Fashion Incubator Ready to Cook...


Thursday, April 29, 2010
NY Fashion Week Plans for Lincoln Center - First Peek
Rigoletto and Ralph, Carmen and Calvin, Donna and Divas... Much talk has been generated about Mercedes-Benz Fashion week moving to Lincoln Center this fall. The CFDA revealed the first look at the plans for September.
Instead of two main tents and a room at the library from Bryant park, the new plans have four main areas. The Theatre, The Stage, The Studio and The Box Presentation Space. The Theatre venue will have seating for 969 people and the option for a straight or U-shaped runway. The Stage venue, in white with gray carpeting, can seat 740, with stadium-style bench seats. The Studio will be the smallest runway venue, for 369 people, and The Box space is designated for presentations and events. There is also an additional venue called The Courtyard, a glass-encased outdoor space that could be used for informal presentations.
Fashion GPS will partner with IMG to allow designers to manage invitations and RSVPs online. It will also help guests be able to check themselves in via kiosks and bar codes.
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Anna Wintour's Master Class

Monday night, an intimate group of fashion students, the style savvy and curious industry vets were privy to a master class at Pratt Institute given by legendary editors Anna Wintour and Hamish Bowles.
The evening started with Ms. Wintour’s remembering of iconic fashion photographer Irving Penn. While many people know her as the muse for a certain Prada-wearing Devil character, it was actually touching to hear her get choked up about her friend. Media insiders smirked when she recounted several anecdotes where Mr. Penn took her to task for making Vogue too commercial. The editor also reminisced about his gracious manner and how he dressed formally to walk 5 blocks to work, only to dress down into jeans again at the office.
The dapper Hamish Bowles next led a discussion about other notable contributors that shaped the magazine. He described Mainbocher as a “Truffle hound for talent”. Under his direction came striking images by Horst. Diana Vreeland brought movement and energy along with photographer Richard Avedon. Mr. Bowles presentation led up to contemporary work by Annie Leibowitz, Bruce Weber and Mario Testino.
In the Q&A portion of the event, Anna Wintour was asked what she was doing to help young designers. That particular person was verbally spanked as she replied that the student had not done her homework. She explained that her Vogue/CFDA fashion fund had developed, promoted and financially aided many talents like Alexander Wang and Rodarte.
On the subject of sustainable fashion, Ms. Wintour noted that there was a new style ethics column, and green fashion designers that were helped by the fashion fund as well. She was also supporting an eco-collection by Michael Kors.
On the touchy subject of fashion bloggers, Hamish Bowles and Anna Wintour graciously noted that all coverage of fashion was a good ting. They embraced it, but pointed out that Vogue’s own website had it all and their professional experience made the difference…
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Fashion’s Night Out in NYC (and the UK, Spain, Italy, China, Japan, Brazil, Germany, etc.)
Did your Fashion Week show invitations get lost in the mail? No worries. All of the top designers and stores are having fabulous parties, designer and celeb appearances to give you the VIP treatment on Thursday night. Vogue magazine, the CFDA and the city of New York have collaborated to bring you, the stylish fashionista you are all sorts of spa treatments, goodies, champagne and hors d’oeuvres to make a shopping for your Fall wardrobe as fabulous as it can be. You won’t be missing anything on the runway, as the designers and models are breaking for this event.
In NYC, Henri Bendel will have appearances by Carlos Falchi and Trish McEvoy. You can be styled by Gossip Girl costume designer Eric Daman while sipping cocktails and nibbling fancy snacks. At Sak’s Fifth Avenue, say hello to Kooba designer Abbe Held while checking out the awesome new bags and chatting with Rihanna’s stylist. The Ralph Lauren store on Bleeker Street will be dishing out Magnolia cupcakes and possibly a secret Blake Lively appearance (shh!). Macy’s will have Tommy Hilfiger and free jazz performances.
Of course, it’s not all about shallow shopping. Many of the participants are involved in a clothing drive for the needy and are offering limited edition items, where the proceeds benefit charity.
Not in NYC? Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills will give you the New York vibe with cheesecake and Nathan’s hot dogs while you shop, Los Angele’s Fred Segal will host several designers. More on L.A. here.
Cities around the world are also joining the fun. To check out International events, click here.
Look up your favorite designer for how they plan to party Thursday night here.
