Custo Barcelona - Fall 2011

The attitude was wild and brash.  David and Custodio Dalmau’s show for Custo Barcelona is one of the most anticipated during fashion week for its vibrant outlook.   For me, it was the first time seeing them live on the runway.  My eyes were blinded from the swirling patterns.

There were several pieces that evolved from last Fall’s ‘it’ item, the fur vest.  For the upcoming season, there was a feathered, halter vest, looped wool jacket, layered faux fur stripe cape and stripes of bleached white.  Their signature mix of prints this season included 1960’s geometrics mixed with electric paisley for a Bohemian look.  Metallic animal prints were combined with swirling knits that took you easily from Ibiza to Goa and then back to the city again.

Fashion designers tend to have 'runway' looks that are purely editorial.  By the time the pieces trickle down to the stores, the looks are tame and less theatrical.

Seeing the Custo Barcelona shops in Madrid last month, I can attest that this is one label where that does not apply.  What you see is what you get. 

Photos by Ritika Wahal

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Marchesa Fall 2011

Every New York Fashion Week, I attend as many shows as humanly possible.  Some designers are past favorites and some are designers new to me.  In all of these cases, I am looking for designs that will excite me and in turn be able to share that excitement with you.  Sometimes the shows are good, sometimes forgettable and sometimes they are true revelations.

One label I seek out season after season is Marchesa.  It is hands down THE show that I look forward to every season.  I wrote to them requesting an invite for their presentation, despite not knowing if and when it would occur.  I did not hear back from them and several of my colleagues told me that they didn’t think they were showing this time around.  Then almost last minute, I learned that the presentation WAS taking place at the same venue in Chelsea as last season.  Needless to say, I high tailed it down there on the afternoon of the event, determined not to miss it.  I was relieved to find that my advance request had landed me on the guest list. Lucky me!

Once inside, I was greeted by a collection that was everything I had hoped it would be.  The level at which they consistently produce amazes me and has my utmost respect.  I wandered through the presentation awestruck, my head buzzing with a sensory overload of beauty.  In describing the outfits, I struggle in calling them “gowns” or “dresses”, as these are so much more than that.  Each one is a divine piece of art, taking fashion to it’s highest level and creating wearable masterpieces.  This is truly Haute Couture...

For Fall 2011, designer’s Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig took their inspiration from Charles Dickens Great Expectations, imbuing the collection with a Dickensian Era romanticism.  Miss Havisham’s wedding gown played a key role, with yards and yards of lace evident throughout the collection.  Except that not all of it is really lace.  The designers created their own “lace” by applying embroidery and beading onto tulle for a visually stunning effect.  Crystals, jet beads, pearls and metallic threads give this handcrafted lace a stunning richness.

Fine silks, velvet, organza, tulle, feathers and reembroidered lace create a richness that is further emphasized by meticulous draping.  Fabric is painstakingly draped to create 3-Dimensional forms and floral motifs which wrap around the body.  The skilled drape and imaginative construction of each piece is a testament to true artistry and craftsmanship.

I wouldn’t say that Marchesa tops itself each season, because that would imply that the previous collection was somehow less spectacular than the current collection.  Rather, it is more accurate to say that they continue to produce collections that inspire wonderment and awe, each collection equally brilliant.  I hesitatingly pulled myself away and strolled out onto 22nd Street in the dreamy state of a somnambulist, not wanting to awake from the beauty that had surrounded me.  Marchesa had done it again!

Photos and Reporting by Mdivani Monroe

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Chris Benz Fall 2011

The David Rubenstein Atrium was packed beyond capacity on Valentine’s Day.  The occasion was the presentation of Chris Benz’ Fall 2011.  Crowds pushed their way slowly through the exhibit, frustrating photographers and celebrities alike.  Susan Sarandon was spotted swimming with the tide.  Fashion blogger BryanBoy was observing the collection while inexplicably dressed as a lion. 

The clothes themselves were a representation of two of the top trends of the season…Americana and the 1970’s.   The color palette was warm, with a mix of cozy textures.  Wool mixed with leather, some fur and georgette.  Patterns included oversized swinging plaids and hippie florals.  Longer skirts with shorter pants were layered with 70's outerwear silhouettes.  Floppy hats played a big role in accessories.  Shoes were also a standout.  The shoes had funky colors and prints that would contrast the rest of the outfit.  

The muse of this collection was the studio lady of Savannah, Georgia, where Mr. Benz acts mentor.  This was another one of many nerd-chic collections this season  that once again proved brainy is HOT!

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Dennis Basso Fall 2011 collection

Dennis Basso is famous for his decadent use of fur and attracting ladies who lunch. Naturally, his Fall 2011 collection had plenty of both. The audience in attendance was different than the usual fashion week crowd of outlandish characters and expressionless editors in black. Instead, the ladies who lunched and socialite set of the Upper East Side came to support their favorite furrier designer.  

Entire front rows of the double runway were filled with svelte, tall women carrying lots of pelts and sported real or faux tans with highlighted blonde hair. 

Dennis Basso's fur lovers in the front row

There was almost an obscene amount of fur in every variation. It was used in suit jackets to three quarter length coats. There were a few dresses in the mix.  A sheer, tiered lace frock was actually quite breathtaking.  I wish there had been more of those but this was a fall collection, which screams out for  fur, correct?

The colors were beautiful neutrals.   Browns, beige and light greys made up the palette.  It may not be to everyone's taste. Those of us in the press pit were all frisked at the last moment with a full search of our equipment and bags.  Apparently, there were fears that a PETA member might sneak in as a paparazzi shooting, with paint instead of a lens…

Luckily, there were no such incidents.  Under all the fur pieces, there were slinky, covet-worthy pieces. These included a chocolate silk plunging cowl neck evening dress that glided down the runway and looked surprisingly comfy. There were also some sharply tailored suits and trousers in luxe fabrics as well as cool knit crochet dresses with ruffles and flounces. 

Dennis Basso Fall 2011

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NY FASHION WEEK:Christian Siriano Fall 2011

Project Runway's most celebrated alumni sent his darker event dresses down the runway at the beginning of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  He played with volume and sheer, with elaborate ruffling to dress up the ballgown silhouettes.  Black favored heavily in the overall palette, as Christian Siriano understands what "fierce" NY women like to wear.  One would think that the monochromatic presentation would be boring, but the designer kept the visuals interesting by mixing the weights and textures of the fabrics within each fabric.  Knits were layered with satin, chiffon with wool, etc.  

Accessories on the other, were not as successful.  Mr. Siriano's collaboration with Payless Shoes has been heavily promoted by the brand, but the footwear chosen for the show was awkward.  Perhaps the Payless platform just wasn't made for the runway walker, as several models were visibly challenged by them.

Siriano's glam-licious creations always bring out the stars...Mena Suvari, Gabrielle Union and Alexa Chung were spotted shopping from the front row.

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NY Fashion Week: Nautica Fall 2011

How relevant is sailing attire in the very urban center of Manhattan?  While you ponder that, take a peek at the Fall 2011 offerings from Nautica Sportswear.  This (mostly) menswear label has never been the trendsetter of the industry.  However, it brings value to sportswear staples with nautical details.

  

Outerwear was the standout of their presentation.  Variations on peacoats and toggle coats were the big push.  A lighter grouping of sporty whites had better intentions for the sea.  

An overworked, underslept design team was on hand to show support of their efforts.  More exhausted staff were left back at the studio to toil away for the next season, making sure the clothes fit well…

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NY Fashion Week: Zang Toi Fall 2011

It was the last show after a thirteen hour day at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week… A ray of beauty perked a roomful of exhausted fashion elite.  In a stunning runway presentation last week, Zang Toi gave a show that drew constant applause and the first sincere standing ovation I have ever seen at Lincoln Center.

The very first look was a dramatic caped cashmere figure that drew gasps from the audience.  After that came gown after gown, embroidered jewels and luxury.  The colors palette was simple,  camel, lush forest green and black.  There were hundreds of people in the studio venue, yet the atmosphere managed to be intimate and supportive.  

Real Housewife of New York, Jill Zarin walked the runway in one of the most dramatic dresses.  She also came out to help the designer take his much-deserved bow.  Mr. Toi came out in a classic tuxedo and was visibly moved by the audience response.  

I had previously worked with Zang Toi in my earlier days in embroidery design.  He was always a sweet, creative man.  I couldn’t be happier for the success of this collection!

Check out our exclusive interview with the designer in his studio:

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NY Fashion Week: Norman Ambrose Fall 2011

Norman Ambrose embodied the Luxe Life in his Fall Winter 2011 collection with vignettes reminiscent of classic Vogue or Bazaar photo spreads. Furs, silks, feathers, hand appliquéd beading were enticingly incorporated with premium knits and delicate fabrics for the woman who is both a woman of leisure and the CEO.

The show was divided into two sides, with daywear on the left and evening wear on the right.

Some of my favorite touches – on the daytime side wool suiting with gold threads and Snakeskin Pants that can go anywhere.  On the evening side – sleek, flattering, modest cuts and the subtle use of luxurious accents that some designers overuse – sheer mesh with beading and a well-placed row of feathers around the knee of a long sequined gown.

Photos and Reporting by Marcy Clark of Women's Mafia

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NY Fashion Week: Betsey Johnson Fall 2011

What was the highlight of fashion week for me? The irreverent, vivacious Betsey Johnson presenting her Fall 2011 collection at Lincoln Center on Valentine's Day. Undoubtedly, her show is the brightest  trip of the week.   This season, she presented both her upmarket Black Tag collection and her more affordable, Pink Patch lines on the same runway.  

For the 33 years, Betsey has put on a fabulous show for her downtown girls.  The models were relaxed and beautiful in clashing over-saturated florals and prints.   They strutted in short Louise Brooks black bobs with lace spray-on color insets.  

There were peplum jackets and skintight pants in black and white leopard prints.  Red rompers over shiny red leopard tights were seen.   Red plaid tartan bustiers were worn over long fuchsia skirts. While the collection on the runway was great on the models, the individual pieces were wearable for non-model types too.  My personal collection (of now vintage) Betsey Johnson  dresses still receive compliments, so I can attest that each piece is workable in any wardrobe.  

For the downtown girls, hipster girls and girly girls, Betsey Johnson has something for each of you. 

The best part of the presentation was when Betsey Johnson sent her staff of girls and the occasional boys dressed in her clothes at the end  to universal audience support of whistles and clapping.

The designer herself came down the runway and for her trademark finale cartwheel and dragged Patricia Field of Sex and the City fame down the runway with her.

Miss Jay from America's Top Model fame and the ever present, Robert Verdi, were also spotted in the audience.

More photos:

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NY Fashion Week: Yoana Baraschi Fall 2011

Designer Yoana Baraschi wants you to visit virtual reality.  Her Fall 2011 inspiration was a lot of high tech and 1970’s glam.    Bright graphic stripes were coordinated with abstract grid prints.  Colorblocking and layered patchwork techniques were a running theme.  The silhouettes included shift dresses, A-line skirts and cozy coats.

Ms. Baraschi’s upbringing was always surrounded by art.  She studied textiles and came from a family of artists.   This background was evident this season in the large scale digital prints with bright, modern colors.

  

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NY Fashion Week: Tse Cashmere Fall 2011

The classic luxury of cashmere has always been Tse’s trademark.  In recent seasons, the company looked to Obama favorite Jason Wu to bring in high fashion to the line.  For Fall 2011, they went back to their roots:  wearable, impeccable and exquisitely made.

The clothing that was presented was a thoughtful, edited collection of fall color basics.  The design team started with Pierre Cardin as the key inspiration.  There were greys, forest green, navy, brown and ivory.  There were slim pants, long draped jackets.  Dresses and skirts were also slim and long.  The sweater knits were chunky and cozy.  There was a chenille-type yarn, cables and textured knits.  The brushed double faced cashmere was two-toned and reversible.

The jewelry was commissioned from Brian Crumley.  The pieces were contemporary, but very simple.   

Photos by Mariana Leung

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