Russian Fashion Week: Konstantin Gayday

This Russian designer has a reputation as an avant-garde type, but his craftmanship really belongs in the luxury segment.  He originally made his name in creating exquisite fur hats for Saga Furs.  Elite Russian fashionistas are big fans of his clutch purses.  

For the designer's presentation last month, he showed a mix of all his favorite techniques.  Dramatic millinery drew from his heritage.  Satins were trimmed in fur in classic luxury techniques, but the silhouettes were fresh and modern.

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Dennis Basso Fall 2011 collection

Dennis Basso is famous for his decadent use of fur and attracting ladies who lunch. Naturally, his Fall 2011 collection had plenty of both. The audience in attendance was different than the usual fashion week crowd of outlandish characters and expressionless editors in black. Instead, the ladies who lunched and socialite set of the Upper East Side came to support their favorite furrier designer.  

Entire front rows of the double runway were filled with svelte, tall women carrying lots of pelts and sported real or faux tans with highlighted blonde hair. 

Dennis Basso's fur lovers in the front row

There was almost an obscene amount of fur in every variation. It was used in suit jackets to three quarter length coats. There were a few dresses in the mix.  A sheer, tiered lace frock was actually quite breathtaking.  I wish there had been more of those but this was a fall collection, which screams out for  fur, correct?

The colors were beautiful neutrals.   Browns, beige and light greys made up the palette.  It may not be to everyone's taste. Those of us in the press pit were all frisked at the last moment with a full search of our equipment and bags.  Apparently, there were fears that a PETA member might sneak in as a paparazzi shooting, with paint instead of a lens…

Luckily, there were no such incidents.  Under all the fur pieces, there were slinky, covet-worthy pieces. These included a chocolate silk plunging cowl neck evening dress that glided down the runway and looked surprisingly comfy. There were also some sharply tailored suits and trousers in luxe fabrics as well as cool knit crochet dresses with ruffles and flounces. 

Dennis Basso Fall 2011

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Monster Chic - Big & Furry Makes the Cut?

For anyone who observed the runway offerings for Fall 2010, you probably noticed that fur was making a comeback. At first, I was excited that it signaled a return to luxury. Now, as I look over the past year, I realize that it has less to do with decadence, but an excuse to be a beastly ogre.

While I expected movies like Young Victoria and Coco Before Chanel from 2009 to inspire fashion trends for this year, I never expected Shrek and Where the Wild Things Are to make the cut. The cast of the Green monster movie starred in a photo spread for VMAN magazine. Downtown chic boutique Opening Ceremony offered an entire collection around the wild ones. In Paris, right there on Chanel's icy catwalk, was the Abonimable snowman. I suppose when you are over-sized and covered in hair, it hides all sins...

That's just what every girl needs...To have her boyfriend's Star Wars Wookie fantasies validated.

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Custo Barcelona's Hairy Metal Fall 2010

Extroverts, start your engines! The Custo Barcelona collection for Fall 2010 Sunday evening was specifically designed to make a (loud) statement for whomever wears their clothes.

Designers Custo and David Dalmau have earned a celebrity following with their flamboyant prints and sexy silhouettes. The presentation on the runway took this image up a notch. Elements of fur and sequins gave some luxe to the collection. Super short skirts and dresses, patterned suits and leggings. The color palette was rich with purple, royal blue, fushia and brights. The fur trim and jackets were more Blade Runner than Brooke Astor.

The show was lit like a nightclub with a soundtrack to match. It clearly marked the Custo girl as not the lady who lunches in beige tearooms. Handbags were large, slouchy and trimmed to match the clothing.

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