NY Fashion Week: Nautica Fall 2011

How relevant is sailing attire in the very urban center of Manhattan?  While you ponder that, take a peek at the Fall 2011 offerings from Nautica Sportswear.  This (mostly) menswear label has never been the trendsetter of the industry.  However, it brings value to sportswear staples with nautical details.

  

Outerwear was the standout of their presentation.  Variations on peacoats and toggle coats were the big push.  A lighter grouping of sporty whites had better intentions for the sea.  

An overworked, underslept design team was on hand to show support of their efforts.  More exhausted staff were left back at the studio to toil away for the next season, making sure the clothes fit well…

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Etro's Caramel Peacock Fall 2011 RTW

This collection reminded me of a cozy Dandy.  The looks contained lots of patterns.  They ranged from  ditsy prints, pale paisleys to stripes and glen plaids.  The color palette contained multiple shades of caramel, browns, chocolate with pops of peacock blue.  Jackets played on different lengths, shorter double-breasted jackets to elongated lean coats.

There were embellishments that you would usually associate with womenswear, but in this collection, looked appropriate.  Dainty tucks and ruffles on shirts, contrast tabs and plackets. Accented bow ties, elaborate scarves.  A lot of the models carried big, over-sized bags of rugged leather with pops of color.

This runway show did not look feminine, but I had a hard time picturing men outside of Europe putting these looks together.

Photos by Davide Maestri

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DSquared2's Brokeback Mormons Fall 2011

You have to love the collection name.  Whether or not it was the best visual or pigeon-holed the collection itself is another story.  The clothes themselves had a sophisticated, lean silhouette.  There was some waistcoat styling with a rugged edge.  The dark palette of black, indigo and charcoal evoked a smoky mountaintop.  The jackets, shirts and slim scruffy jeans were very wearable.  They didn't necessarily scream cowboy or the 'Mormon' theme.  The only pieces I didn't get, and predict won't work well were the 'apron' accessory/vests.

Chloe Sevigny just launched her collection for Opening Ceremony.  Louis Vuitton's Fall 2010 collection was also full of conservative prairie looks.  Now HBO's "Big Love" has inspired fashion for men as well... Who knew these Latter Day Saint types were so chic?

Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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Klaxon Howl Blue Collar Chic

What do real men want to wear?  Klaxon Howl is a unique shop in Toronto's Queen West neighborhood known for military-inspired styling and classic workmanship techniques.  Founder Matt Robinson often pulls from vintage design.  The label offers modern workwear made with local fabrics and local Canadian labor.  

Mr. Robinson's Spring 2011 presentation had an updated 1950's vibe.  The male models had a tough, slick look that reminded me of West Side Story.  There were some preppy looks with some attitude thrown in.  The silhouettes seem simple, but the seaming and stitching are quite detailed.  A few sexy women's looks were thrown in...Klaxon Howl's version of the 'boyfriend' shirt.  

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Buckler Spring 2011

Buckler’s Spring 2011 Collection was inspired by the German modernists’ school, Bauhaus, and the 1924 Olympics.

Both the Bauhaus and the 1924 Olympics represent ardent optimism and a belief in the future. Buckler’s collection is influence by the Bauhaus principle ”less is more” using linens and cottons in the color palette old white, navy, silver grey, red and khaki with minimalistic stripe details and different colored collars. The looks were complimented with bags from The Madly.

Buckler’s collection presented shorts, polos, shirts, blazers and jackets with interesting minimalistic details like striped pattern and different colored collars for the young modern man.

Reported By Sonja Leix of Women's Mafia.  Photos by Ritika Wahal.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Perry Ellis Spring 2011

Take a swing at the country club mate?  The Spring 2011 men's collection from Perry Ellis projected a leisurely lifestyle.  Pastels, genteel cottons.  Cardigans and cable sweaters dominated the knit offerings.  Casual jackets looked great in tonal light colors.

On everyone's seat was a white polo shirt from Perry Ellis.  Just a happy gift?  No, it goes deeper than that.  The shirts were offered to raise awareness of Project Beach.  Both the show and the project were produced to raise funds to aid in the BP oil spill recovery efforts.  The initiative is a Facebook campaign inviting you to purchase the shirt to support the restoration.

Designer John Crocco took a happy, calm bow at the end of the show.  

Spotted in the Front Row: Nigel Barker, Fern Mallis, Anthony Rapp

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NY FASHION WEEK: Duckie Brown Spring 2011

Duckie Brown always promises to be the highlight of men’s offerings at fashion week.  Daniel Silver and Steven Cox are known for tweaks on the standard wardrobe staples.  First, seating for show was unlike the other fashion shows of Mercedes-Benz Fashion week.  Only one side of the tent was sectioned off for press and audience. The other side was reserved for the models to assemble after their walk down the runway. empty until the models started strutting down the runway. It gave the audience and press to examine each piece of the line in a more intimate matter from the other side of the catwalk.

High neck jackets were offered in easy neutral grays and camels.  There were unexpected plays on lengths. Luxurious tee shirts were made a bit long below the hips.  They were worn over rolled cuff pants with sockless mocks courtesy of Florsheim (yes, that 'classic' shoe company).  Cheetah bombers over plaid rolled up pants sounds like a weird combination but in the of Duckie Brown, they were surprise crowd-pleasers.  

Asymmetrical knit cardigans in longer lengths and side ties were interesting and wearable.  The classic leather bomber came in a dark shade of army green.  However, even I am not sure how one would wear the silk, 1980’s style zebra print shirt!

Essentially, the show was about unexpected bursts of color and plays on texture and lengths.   Stephen told the backstage press that he loved bright colors and pinks.  He expressed that it was first time he felt the designs came alive as he had intended when he was designing the collection.

Photos and reporting by Ritika Wahal

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NY FASHION WEEK: Nautica Spring 2011

Where is the genteel man?  Nautica's Spring 2011 presentation tried to bring him to you.  The menswear collection showed casual, variations on soft blazers paired with simple knits and woven shirts.  Faded plaids were key as were clean, neutral shorts and pants.  The overall effect was the wardrobe of a relaxed, upscale weekender.  

Swimwear had a different direction.  The beach looks consisted of color blocks and sailing flag motifs.  This is the only category where I saw the brand's nautical theme.  I did not see any of the signature outerwear containing the mariner styling or trims of past seasons.  Is this the sign of the brand's new direction?

What I can say is that there was attention paid to the details and the fit looked great.  I think that the design team and technical designers are clearly underpaid... (Full disclosure, I was a former employee). 

Why a new direction?  One reason might be that the current Nautica fan is very hard to define.  The day of the show, the men I observed wearing Nautica in the street included a food delivery man from Honduras and a retiree from Virginia.  Sail on my friends.

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FAB GIVEAWAY: Diesel's Only The Brave/Iron Man

Did you geek out at Comic-Con in San Diego last week? Haven't had your fill of superheroes yet?
Slick denim brand Diesel and Marvel Comic's Iron Man are teaming up for a FABulous giveaway.

Only The Brave was inspired by rebels. Unless you had your head in the sand, you know Iron Man is a bit of a renegade too.

To win, 'Like' us on Facebook, and post on the Ms. FAB wall on what makes YOU an Iron Man/Woman. The favorite answer chosen by our team gets the special edition comic book and Only The Brave cologne gift set. Winner will by chosen Wednesday, August 11, 2010.

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