Dior Haute Couture Draws from Illustration Legend Rene Gruau

Rene Gruau was a legendary artist who elevated the craft of fashion illustration into fine art.  His paintings graced posters, magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar and some of the most iconic fashion advertising of the century.  My illustration professors at Parsons worshipped him along with many of my fellow students.

The illustrator's work was the main muse behind John Galliano's latest Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior.  The exaggerated silhouettes with dramatic lipstick and hair sashayed down the runway to the awe of clients and colleagues alike.  Voluminous ballgowns swirled in organza.  Wispy feathers and intricate embroidery embellished heads and dresses.  The retro or classic nipped waist that is Dior's signature look made a welcome comeback.  The show was presented at the Musee Bourdelle, appropriate for the sculptures of clothing Galliano intended to display.  Some of the classic "Miss Dior" campaigns of earlier years were painted by Gruau.

For any of you who think that a timeless artist is too high brow for every day inspiration... One of my husband's favorite comic books, Tim Sale's Catwoman: When in Rome also credits it's creative direction to Gruau.

Spotted in the front row: Mario Testino, Azzedine Alaia, Patrick Demarchelier, Marisa Berensen

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Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring 2011

Are you a fashion geek like me and followed Jean Paul Gaultier through the years?  If you did, you would have loved his most recent Haute Couture showing.  It mixed the elaborate silhouettes, miles of silk tulle and dramatic head pieces he is known for.

This collection had some punk influence, some Can-Can surprises and wildly colorful prints.  A certain flamenco influence that we have seen before made its way to some of the looks.  While thumping DJ sets are expected at most fashion shows these days, Gaultier bucked the standard and surprised everyone with an elegant Catherine Deneuve.  Her voice announced each look verbally in the tradition of Haute Couture's classic presentations.

Accessories included the dramatic feathered mohawks of course.  Some of the models sported the JPG and Alain Mikli collaborative group of eyeglasses.

Spotted in the Front Row: Pedro Almodovar, Ines de la Fressange
Images from Firstview

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Armani Prive Couture Spring 2011

The future is here....And Armani owns it.  Armani Prive put out a sleek, shimmering collection from the far reaches of the galaxy.  The skirts and dresses were long, slim and body conscious.  The fabrics were reflective or metallic.  The sci-fi type effects were achieved with metal threads woven into silk.  Organza was give a mirror-like finish.  

Accessories were a range of flying saucer type hats by Philip Treacy. There matching reflective clutch handbags paired with over-sized jewels..  Lipstick was a deep eggplant for a severe, futuristic look.

Critics were divided on this collection.  Giorgio Armani was always synonymous with the color beige, classic elegance and timeless sophistication.  This collection diverted away from that.  It might alienate some die-hard fans, but gain some new aliens in the process...(sorry, cheap one, I know.) I personally loved it.  Some of the silhouettes were a little tough for a non-model like me to wear, but something I can aspire to?  I loved the color palette and textures.  

Spotted in the Front Row: Jodie Foster, Sophia Loren, Olivia Wilde

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