Fashion In Film Festival: Birds of Paradise

What are you doing Friday?  If you love costume and movies, the Fashion in Film Festival is running April 15^th through May 2^nd for true geeks. Their tagline promises “a major extravaganza in costume spectacle, dance and diabolical glamour”.  How can you resist that?

Birds of Paradise  “highlights those episodes in cinema history which most distinctly foreground costume, adornment, and styling as vehicles of sensuous pleasure and enchantment.”  The festival explores underground film, silent films.  Archival examples demonstrate how fashion and costume have showcased movement, light, theme and aesthetics since the beginning of cinema.

For the full schedule of screenings, lectures and themes, click here.

The festival blog is a treasure trove of gorgeous costume photos and stylish film history.

The events take place at the Graduate Center at City University of New York and is hosted by the Museum of the Moving Image.

The Graduate Center, CUNY

365 Fifth Avenue

New York 10016

www.gc.cuny.edu

Museum of the Moving Image

36-01 35 Avenue

New York 11106

box office: 718 777 6888

www.movingimage.us

The Graduate Center, CUNY

365 Fifth Avenue

New York 10016

www.gc.cuny.edu

Read more →

Vanity Fair's Fashion in Film Festival

Do you prefer the glamour of the silver screen to the chaos on the runway?  Vanity Fair Magazine (of Oscar party fame) and Simon Doonan (Barney's creative director/auhor of "Wacky Chicks") is hosting a three-day film festival of fashionable films.  


The events are held at the Museums of Arts and Design in NYC and will offer the opportunity for discussions or mingling with fellow fashionistas, editors and designers.  In addition to the screenings, enjoy the Vanity fair “Fashion in Film” lounge for complimentary refreshments. Guests are also invited to explore the interactive BMW “Spotlight on Innovation” installation and strike a pose in the L’Oréal Paris digital photo booth.


Tickets are available here.


FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9
8:30 p.m. “Qui Êtes-Vous, Polly Magoo?,” with introduction by Simon Doonan

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10
Vanity Fair “Fashion in Film” Lounge, open to the public 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.
3 p.m. X, Y, and Zee
5 p.m. Hearts and Crafts
7 p.m. Umbrellas of Cherbourg, presented by L’Oréal Paris, followed by reception in “Fashion in Film” lounge
9 p.m. Eyes of Laura Mars

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 11
Vanity Fair “Fashion in Film” Lounge, open to the public 11 a.m. – 6 p.m.
3 p.m. “Spotlight on Innovation: Creative Inspiration from Cinema” panel discussion presented by BMW, moderated by Simon Doonan, and followed by reception in “Fashion in Film” lounge
5 p.m. Diva
7 p.m. Rick, Michele and Scarlett (Rick Owens Documentary)
9 p.m. Faster Pussycat, Kill! … Kill!

The Museum of Arts and Design is located at 

2 Columbus Circle # 1

New York, NY, 10019

Read more →

Jean Paul Gaultier at Montreal Museum of Fine Arts

A French-Canadian museum gets tres chic today as Fashion's French bad-boy gets a retrospective.  The exhibit celebrates the Jean Paul Gaultier's 35 years in design.  The looks presented are divided into five themes of his influence on fashion design,  Paris, Fusions, Multi-Gender, Eurotrash/X-rated and Metropolis.

Besides clothing creations, the museum will display photos, sketches and audiovisual elements.  Mainstream fans will probably look for his collaborations with pop culture icons like Lady Gaga, Madonna, Kylie Minogue and Andy Warhol.  What would lingerie be without the iconic cone bra?  Gaultier also contributed to memorable looks in film, photography and concerts.

The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts exhibit of The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk runs until October 2, 2011.  

Read more →

Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith at Brooklyn Museum

An exhibit that features 21 pieces of jewelry from a Brookyn designer may seem simplistic compared to the epic Costume Institute exhibits of the Metropolitan Museum.  However, the jewelry created by Art Smith, saw its influences from surrealism, biomorphicism, and primitivism.


The artist began creating work from a small shop in Greenwich Village after completing studies at Cooper Union.  He was a social activist and soon gained clientele from all facets of society.   Smith influenced the work of other jewelry designers like Claire Falkenstein and Ed Weiner.

Decorative Arts Galleries, 4th Floor

Brooklyn Museum

200 Eastern Parkway

Read more →

Van Cleef & Arpels Exhibit - Set In Style

One of the most elegant jewelers on the market, Van Cleef & Arpels began as a family business in 1896.  Two brothers-in-law set themselves up to use innovative techniques and high quality stones to draw International clients through their Paris doors.  The Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum explores their legacy at their exhibit, Set In Style, The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels.  

The museum demonstrates how the company was an innovator in unique stone-setting techniques to display jewels in a unique way.  The company was also a trendsetter in taking inspiration from nature and foreign cultures.  Their snowflakes and bird motifs have always been popular.  The exoticism trend of the 1920's was seen in their Egyptian influenced handbag above, then through Cambodian and Japanese motifs in later years.

This piece was one of my favorites of the collection,  This jeweled bird is illustrated beautifully in stones.  However, I love the multi-tasking nature of the piece.  The wings can be removed and become earrings.  The tail can be removed to be a brooch.  The stone drop can be worn separately as a pendant around your neck.

Throughout the exhibit, you can also see the work process from sketch to finished product.  The museum also highlights the personalities that have either made certain pieces famous (and vice versa).  Jewelry owned by Hollywood legends like Grace Kelly and Marlene Dietrich are on display.

For the ultimate in glamor, surround yourself in all the glitters.  The exhibit runs until July 4th, 2011.

Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum

2 East 91st Street New York, NY 10128

Read more →

Expressions Dentelle Lace Exhibit at FIT

Lace evokes images from sexy screen sirens to soft, classic beauties of the Edwardian age.

Lace can easily look déclassé, if it's not well made and designed. Thisis why New Yorkers are in for a lovely surprise if they can attend the current exhibit on lace at the Fashion Institute of Technology. 

The exhibit is to help promote France's Nord-Pas de Calais region and features lace dress designer, Claire Catoire's exceptional design work.

                           

There are two modern and covet worthy lace collections by Claire Catoire titled "Claire veut la lune" which is a collection of wedding dresses and sexy, transparent black dresses titled under "Lace skin".   

Ms. Catoire's grandparents were lace makers in the region and she grew up playing and dressing up in piles of textiles and lace. Naturally, she gravitated towards costume and design in her formative
school years and her collection of dresses are luxurious, sensuous and exquisite with beautiful shapes from A-line to softly draped and belted pieces.

The exhibit also features the photography skills of Pascal Auve titled "The Hand And The Thread" which showcases the beauty and surprisingly modernity of lace.

                           

We suggest you try to check out this beautiful collection as soon as you can and re-think your views on traditional lace.   

The exhibit is free and runs thru April 17th at FIT in the D.Lobby Gallery. 

Read more →

Rodarte: States of Matter Exhibit at MOCA

In business for only six years, the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte have been one of the most lauded and respected fashion designers of the current generation.  Honored by Michelle Obama with the Cooper Hewitt Award, celebrated by the fashion elite, the label is now being honored at the Museum of Contemporary Arts in Los Angeles.

The exhibit, “Rodarte: States of Matter” shows several tutus from their highly publicized (and controversial) gig designer for the movie Black Swan.  There are also garments from three seasons of their runway collections.

Longtime collaborator, Alexandre de Betak helped to create dramatic set pieces to display the collection.  A very noir exhibit meant to display black garments as sculpture pieces, there are mannequins suspended from the ceiling and spun slowly on whirling motors.

The theatrical “immersive” exhibit is what you would hope for from a duo who cites “Living Dead Dolls” and Japanese horror films as inspiration. 

The exhibit runs until June 5, 2011 at MOCA Pacific Design Center in Los Angeles.

Photos by Autumn de Wilde. Courtesy of MOCA.

Read more →

FREE EVENT TONIGHT: New York Fashion Film Festival

Join Rory Satran of uber-cool store Opening Ceremony, fashion mag star Emma Reeves and Swell's Tarik Malak for a reception and screening of curated fashion films.  The Fashion Film festival will  be followed by a panel discussion.  StyleCaster, NARS cosmetics and the School of Visual Arts are sponsoring the free film-meets-fashion festivities.

When: Tuesday, March 29th, 2011 at 6:00 PM (reception) 7:00 PM (screening)

Where: SVA Theater, 333 West 23rd Street (near 9th avenue)

Read more →

Fabric of the Garment District - 100th Anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire

New York's most tragic fire, a tragedy that hits at the heart of anyone who works in the garment industry meets its 100th anniversary this week.  The Triangle Shirtwaist Fire was in the Asch Building, one of the lofts specifically built for the garment industry.  Director of Historical Preservation at Columbia University, Andrew Dolkart explores the legacy and geography of the fashion industry in NYC tomorrow night at the Museum of the City of New York.

If you can't attend the lecture, I suggest you check out HBO's incredible documentary, Schmatta: Rags to Riches which also follows the history of the garment industry in New York.  I marveled at how the city and industry had changed.  I also realized more than ever how important it is to keep manufacturing in our home city.  

If you want to learn more or get involved, start with Save The Garment Center's initiative.  To attend the Museum of the City of New York's event, it will run Thursday, March 16 at 6:30 PM.  

Read more →

Yohji Yamamoto Exhibit in London

Artist, innovator, designer.  Yohji Yamamoto's clothing blurs the line between art philosophy and functional garments.  The Victoria and Albert Museum in London launches an exhibit of the designer tomorrow.  The show focuses on his creative process.  Signature Yamamoto techniques are examined, from traditional Japanese Shibori dye process to knitwear to embroidery.

Another section of the exhibit demonstrates his various collaborations with photographers such as Nick Knight.

If you want to explore the work or not content just to view it, sign yourself up for the many events for the exhibit.

There is a lecture by the curator of the show, Ligaya Salazar about what goes into the collections.  There is an interview with the designer himself as moderated by the London College of Art's Frances Corner.  Want to really get hands-on?  There is a three-day workshop to design and create your own Yamamoto-inspired robes led by designer Juliana Sissons.

The exhibit runs from March 12, 2011 to July 10, 2011.  For more information, see the museum site.

Read more →

Vivienne Westwood 1980's - Exhibit at FIT

She claims she never intended to go into fashion…What a thought.  One of the most original characters of the punk 70’s, flamboyant 80’s and the decadent 90’s got involved in clothing design to “help out her boyfriend”. 

Of course, the designer is Vivienne Westwood, and that boyfriend was Malcolm Maclaren, manager of the Sex Pistols.  The Museum at FIT is launching a small exhibit next Tuesday showcasing her iconic looks from the decade of the 1980’s.  That’s when dressing like a Pirate was considered chic and English tweed could actually be made edgy.

Exhibit runs from March 8, 2011 – April 2, 2011.

Museum at FIT

Photo via WWD archives

Read more →

Balenciaga and Spain Exhibit in NYC and San Francisco

Cristobal Balenciaga left a legacy of elegance in Haute Couture.  The designer was heavily influenced by the culture and religion of Spain.  This relationship was explored in an exhibit that just finished at the Upper East Side’s Queen Sofia Spanish Institute and will resume in expanded form at the De Young Fine Arts Museum in San Francisco. 

The exhibit was curated by Vogue’s Hamish Bowles.  There were archival films of the designer’s salon presentations and 1960’s fashion films.  Collections of his sketches and magazine editorials were displayed with influential images that figured into his work.

Another floor compared religious garb and their influence on some of Balenciaga’s iconic pieces.  Heavily embellished toreador uniforms were muse to a collection of hats and beaded boleros.  The rest of the third floor was devoted to gorgeous couture corsets and dresses that were drool-worthy even today.

When disposable fashion fails to inspire you, take a moment to see how a master gets it done.

Read more →

Dior Haute Couture Draws from Illustration Legend Rene Gruau

Rene Gruau was a legendary artist who elevated the craft of fashion illustration into fine art.  His paintings graced posters, magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar and some of the most iconic fashion advertising of the century.  My illustration professors at Parsons worshipped him along with many of my fellow students.

The illustrator's work was the main muse behind John Galliano's latest Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior.  The exaggerated silhouettes with dramatic lipstick and hair sashayed down the runway to the awe of clients and colleagues alike.  Voluminous ballgowns swirled in organza.  Wispy feathers and intricate embroidery embellished heads and dresses.  The retro or classic nipped waist that is Dior's signature look made a welcome comeback.  The show was presented at the Musee Bourdelle, appropriate for the sculptures of clothing Galliano intended to display.  Some of the classic "Miss Dior" campaigns of earlier years were painted by Gruau.

For any of you who think that a timeless artist is too high brow for every day inspiration... One of my husband's favorite comic books, Tim Sale's Catwoman: When in Rome also credits it's creative direction to Gruau.

Spotted in the front row: Mario Testino, Azzedine Alaia, Patrick Demarchelier, Marisa Berensen

Read more →

80's Fashion Makes a Comeback at Sydney's Powerhouse Museum

 

 

Big shoulders, fitness gear.  California blondes and "out of this world" suits.  Philosophy as avant-garde fashion.  What did the 1980's mean to you?  Many decades in fashion, a consistent theme comes to mind... The 1930's, bias-cut gowns, the 1920's, flappers.  The eighties on the other hand, had several iconic directions which were all very different from each other.  

What set the climate for this many looks?  Was it the rise of the power-woman and finance that brought rise to big-shouldered suits?  Did Wall Street's "Greed is Good" atmosphere inspire people to dress in more excessive ways?  Did the gender equality climate help fuel androgyny?  Did all of the excess then cause fashion fans to ponder clothing in a more philosophical way like Comme Des Garcons?  

The Powerhouse museum in Sydney, Australia is exploring all the themes of the Fabulous decade in their current exhibit, "The 80's are Back!"  Expect to see everything from Katherine Hamnett's big slogan t-shirts to Margaret Thatcher's bow blouses.  The museum investigates music, politics, fashion, fads, video games, the AIDS crisis, subcultures and film to determine what was deep within behind the big hair.  

If you can't make it Down Under, check out the exhibit's microsite for essays, photos and resources.

Read more →

I Love the 90's - An Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion

Did you love fashion in the 1990's? (If you were too young, I would rather not know).  What do you remember as the top looks of the decade?  The new exhibit at the Musee Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris recaptures many of them.

I think of minimalism, avant-garde and 'deconstructed' clothes from that time.  The rise of the Belgian designers (Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten).  Yohji Yamamoto's sculpted pieces, Comme des Garcon's cerebral outfits and pleats from Issey Miyake are represented here as well.

Did those trends not appeal to you?  The 1990's were also the height of popularity for Jean Paul Gaultier's tongue-in-cheek fashion.  It was the debut of Tom Ford's reign of Gucci.  Azzedine Alaia was one of the hottest designers, making it into ultimate 90's teen film "Clueless".   Christian Lacroix was a sculpted explosion of color worshiped by the ladies of "Absolutely Fabulous". 

The exhibit runs until May 8, 2011.  Make it over there if you can, or peruse some of the exhibit images online.

Photos By Dominique Maitre for WWD

Read more →