Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2012

Chado Ralph Rucci's exquisite tailoring always makes him a favorite at museum fashion exhibitions.  Design students take notes on the signature seaming that dissects the anatomy like a surgeon.

For spring 2012, Mr. Rucci did not disappoint.  The runway was awash with a palette of white, more white and some shades of off-white. Shiny silver was the second big color, with inky grey/black as part of some spot prints as an accent.  Silhouettes were very body conscious.  Separates, dresses, framed the body in ultra-flattering shapes.  The only misstep was the use of clear vinyl in some looks.  It veered dangerously into spaceman costume territory.

The highly polished runway reflected the collection from below so all of the clothes looked like they were glowing from within.  I don't know how much philosophy plays into this designer's creative process, but if there was a church of fashion enlightenment, this would be it.

Read more →

Adam Spring 2012

Transparency and pastels.  A few black and white prints thrown in.  Adam Lippes' collection for Spring 2012 was like finding a luxe box of licorice all-sorts.  The sweet pinks and lavender colors were never too sugary as they were used in sleek, well cut silhouettes of pants and jackets.  The dresses were feminine and smart, but never frivolous.  This is a grown-up's version of spring dressing.

Adam has loyal following by the young and chic of the city because the designer produces effortless sportswear for the lifestyle.  According to the website, the brand is inspired by "real women" as opposed to celebrities.  That seems like a no-brainer concept for success, yet it is also a rare one...

More photos:

Read more →

Elie Tahari Spring 2012 and Fall 2011 Sample Sale

Merchandised, perpetually wearable, priced appropriately.  The traits that make Elie Tahari a commercial success are often the same reasons that the fashion elite don't consider him a respectable designer.  Customers are very loyal to the brand.  The collections are 'trend-right" and produced very thoughtfully to what the customers want.

One does not hear "innovator" or "trendsetter" associated with the Tahari label.  The color palette for Spring 2012 looked like it was picked directly out of the Pantone list handed to them from a trend agency, (sunburst orange, gold, cream, pale blue).  Femine, sexy, but nothing too risque that would offend their core audience.  Sometimes I wonder if their design meetings are actually focus groups.

You may not find these outfits on a cover of Vogue, but seeing on the backs of tons of successful women in the city seems like the bigger win.

FYI, if you're looking for THIS season's clothes at up to 70% off, check out the TAHARI SAMPLE SALE happening October 18 - 22nd in NYC.  Silky leather jackets will be $279 (down from $998), little black dresses are $129 (down from $398), etc.  There will be menswear, womens, footwear, outerwear, handbags, all the good stuff.

When:                    Monday October 18^th- Saturday October 22^{nd 
                              Tuesday - Friday (8:30 am - 7:30pm) Saturday (10am - 5pm)}

Where:                  501 5^th AVENUE (Entrance 42^nd Street and 5^th Avenue – 2nd Floor)

Phone:                   212-398-2622

Payment:              All major credit cards, cash, no checks

Read more →

Theia Spring 2012

Romanced on a bed of roses?  I can't imagine a lovelier way to present a Spring 2012 collection.  With Goddess Chloris as a muse, designer Don O'Neill showed a meticulous collection of gowns and the debut of the Theia day dress line.

Chloris was the Goddess of flowers.  For Theia, this mean light, petal-like transparency. This inspiration was also translated into high tech digitally printed floral fabrics to hand-embroidered blooms on bodices.  A dimensional technique rarely produced in modern textiles was incorporated into an all-over gown.  

The day dresses included flattering seaming, prints, a sorbet color palette, as well as black and white.  Another innovative technique was Mr. O'Neill's use of laser-cut paillettes.  Instead of hard, shiny sequins, fabric was laser-cut into delicate, soft shapes embroidered onto cocktail dresses and gowns.  This resulted in an elaborately textured dress without the heavy weight of typical beads and jewels.

There were gowns of Theia's signature "crunchy" sequins (a mix of over 10 tonal colors giving a rich, dimensional effect), and light-radiating crystal embroidery.  No wonder the siren call of Theia has attracted the likes of Gossip Girl's Leighton Meester (she wore a Theia wedding gown), Taylor Swift and Emmy Rossum.

The designer gave the Ms. FAB team an exclusive interview to describe his work on this season's collection and access to the full show:

photos by Mariana Leung, video by Nicholas Waickman

Read more →

Byron Lars Spring 2012

How much of fashion is fantasy?  How do you bring dreams into reality?  My favorite designer Byron Lars just released a surrealist video presentation for his Spring 2012 collection last week. He wanted to democratize the presentation experience by making it accessible to all and at your convenience.  (This is a much appreciated sentiment after the chaos of NY Fashion week). 

The Spring 2012 collection of Byron Lars is presented in dreamy, dramatic fashion with a sense of humor.  The clothes themselves are picking up some of the trends from fall, but with a lighter, updated twist.  Belted jacket and dresses had detailed embroidery or faux leather pailettes.  Ruched chiffon made for voluminous collars, or styled as an alternative to fur (shout-out to PETA members...)

The signature flattering silhouettes with intricate seaming was in play with shirts and shirtdresses.  Prints also made their way into the collection via crocheted fabric mash-ups. Trapunto stitching gave texture to belts and other details.

When you're ready to walk on the wilder side, come join me this side of the moon. 

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Richard Chai Spring 2012

Is next spring going to be really chilly?  What's with the blue lips?  I kid of course, I was just happy to see bold makeup when so many other shows displayed nude lips.

I went to school with Richard Chai where he was lovingly called "Richie Rich" (not to be confused with the blond club kid).  He showed graphic contrast stripes and bright colored cottons.  Like many emerging designs graduating to hit brands, he made menswear and womenswear equally important.  The floral prints had a 1980's edge.  They reminded me of the color palette and looks my Mom used to favor when I was a child.  She was a stylin' Mama.

The sportswear separates were flattering and casual.  Exactly what I would want to wear on a typical day in Spring.

Read more →

NY Fashion Week: Carlos Miele Spring 2012

"Will there be Samba musicians down this runway?"  There is only one designer I can think of where members of the photographer's pit would ask this question.  

Carlos Miele brought his brand of sophisticated Brazilian chic to Lincoln Center for New York Fashion Week.  There were no dancers or musicians, but the models brought South American style to Manhattan.  The first few looks to come down the runway were dramatic swirls of printed chiffon. 

The rest of the looks that followed were draped, sexy silhouettes showing off bronzed legs, bared shoulders and long necks.  Sunny orange, one of the most popular colors in the Spring 2012 collection was important in this collection as well.  Vivid blues and greens to reflect the beaches of Brazil were also very prominent.  The popular pattern were variations on a painterly swirled design interpreted in different color palettes.

Fabric manipulations were popular as a design detail on several gowns.  Fabric was twisted and braided.  Other gowns featured a gathered fabric floral technique. 

When spring hits NYC, I'm usually wading through dirty slush thawed from the winter.  If there is any luck in my world, next spring I'll be instead on a beach in Brazil, with a caipirinha in hand and a regal Mielle gown on my back...

Read more →

Custo Barcelona Spring 2012

Explode into Spring 2012 with the most patterned, printed and embellished brand on the market.  Custo Barcelona did not disappoint for their Lincoln Center show.  Jackets, skirts, pants, swimwear and dresses were splashed with attention-screaming looks. 

While it doesn't happen that often, menswear was given equal attention.  The runway saw coordinated pairs in a somewhat more neutral palette.  These looks were still bold, but might appeal to a more mainstream audience.  Either that, or obnoxiously cute couples who insist on dressing alike.

The show brought out celebs, from Gossip girl's Matthew Settle , True Blood's Carrie Preston and former contestants of America's Next Top Model.  

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Douglas Hannant Spring 2012

Do you love the China Club?  Not the cheesy one in Midtown Manhattan, but the posh one in Hong Kong.  Never been there?  That's ok, Douglas Hannant brought the glamor and elegance of 1930's Shanghai to the famed New York Plaza Thursday.

The designer did not use obvious Chinoiserie motifs in the clothes.  Instead, he evoked the atmosphere of the era in the bamboo backdrop.  The silhouettes were modern updates of classic silhouettes as seen in the gowns, sheaths and suits.  Mr. Hannant used the most luxurious fabrics available.

Douglas Hannant doesn't pander to Hollywood or red carpet dressing.  He prefers to concentrate on dressing his loyal clientele of socialites and grande ladies of the city.  His boutique is nestled right next to the famous Warren Tricomi salon at the Plaza.  Edward  Tricomi of the salon explained his direction for the styling was for classic hairstyles updated with extra volume and crimping.

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Vera Wang 2012

The queen of all things bridal, Vera Wang showed a breezy spring collection at Lincoln Center this week. I meant breezy in a literal sense.  A fan blew the chiffon tails of the multiple short/long hems of dresses on the runway.  

The collection was very pretty, more avant-garde than one would expect from this designer known for classic elegance. There was an interesting use of seaming and bound edges.  The colors and fabrics suggested daywear, but the silhouettes definitely cried out for eveningwear.  The were a lot of prints that looked like a melting painting that was edgy for Vera Wang.  Variations on the bubble skirt and the leg revealing hems with flowing trains came up again and again.  If you were not a fan of the prints, you had your pick of bright sun yellow, pistachio, raspberry and neutrals of taupe and cream.

  

The front row notables of this show were one of the most diverse of the week...Top fashion editors Grace Coddington and Joe Zee were in attendance.  Kim Kardashian was on the other side.  Right before the show started, a hush came over the audience as a team of guards escorted Beyonce Knowles into the tent.  Most impressive for me however, was former Secretary of State Madeline Albright.  (Her granddaughter Ellie won tickets and chose grandma as her date). 

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Zang Toi Spring 2012

Dreaming of Marrakech. Malaysian designer Zang Toi was inspired by a journey to North Africa for his Spring 2012 collection. He took influences from the desert for the rich browns and the deep sapphire blue from the night sky. There were a few djeballa type silhouettes included as a nod to traditional Moroccan attire. There were gold appliques in motifs inspired by Moroccan architecture that adorned gowns and capes.

Besides travel muses, the collection was, as always, pure luxury. Zang Toi always chooses the most posh of silks and other fabrics. Every look exudes elegance and sophistication. There were a few cream and black ensembles appropriate for the day that were beautiful, but the guests here reserve their applause for his big gowns.

Kirstie Alley, most recently a favorite on Dancing with the Stars walked out as a Diva of Lincoln Center in the show finale. The burly guys of the photographers pit had been taking bets on her shape and size prior to the show, so it was satisfying to see her look gorgeous.

The ever charming Mr. Toi gave the Ms.FAB team an exclusive interview, our video will be up soon...

Photos by Mariana Leung

Read more →

NY Fashion Week: LAMB Spring 2012 by Gwen Stefani

 Are YOU just a girl?  If so, you had plenty of fun, casual options for Spring 2012.  The Gwen Stefani helmed collection showed quietly in the small 'box' studio of Lincoln Center without the designer.  In previous seasons, her shows were big, celebrity-filled paparazzi-bait.

The clothing did not show a distinct theme, and you didn't really see the pop star's distinct personality in this collection as you would from the previous seasons.  What you did see were bright colors is solid separates or variations on stripes and zig zags of primary colors.  Other separates included neutrals in 1980's styling.

I was much more impressed with the handbag selection at this show.  Several bags had a sunburst-like seaming and braided handle.  Another series had cut strips of leather as a variation to fringe which was clever.

The models were styled with simple informal ponytails, dark eyeliner and neutral lips.  I thought they would at least style them with Stefani's signature red lipstick.  Again, this show just didn't feel like it had Ms. Gwen's stamp on it, so it ended up as one of the blur of collections this season.

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Rebecca Minkoff Spring 2012

She's the girl next door, just much more stylish than the rest of your neighbors.  Rebecca Minkoff sent a light, breezy spring collection down the runway that any girl should want.  There were lots of easy, floral prints and bright Spring colors.  Dresses and skirts were flirty. Relaxed pants were paired with semi-tailored blouses or fitted, shrunken leather jackets.

Handbags included updated versions of her MAB (Morning After Bag) complete with designer branded condoms and vodka for guests at their seats. (How tongue in cheek is that?)  Warm leathers, studs, a little edgier than the clothes to balance the soft femininity of the looks.

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Betsey Johnson Spring 2012

The Betsey Johnson show is one I most look forward to every season. Is it the fond memories of college? Or the fact that these are clothes I fantasized about wearing as an adult when I was eight years old?  I wasn't alone in this anticipation as other female photographers in the pit with me had the same giddyness prior to the show.  Whatever the reason, Betsey Johnson represents fun, flirty femmes.

For Spring 2012, our ageless Betsey sent some Punk/Goth Lolitas with a tongue-in-cheek take on skulls and bones. There were duo-sided skull prints, anatomically correct embroidered rib cage corsets and romantic floral skeleton prints.  Black and zippered tops and dresses.  Super bright pouf dresses were mixed with English garden rose prints in flowing long gowns.

The models were sassy, curvy and had a naughty attitude about them that told the men in the audience who was in charge.  Bright red lips with curls styled to the side had a hint of burlesque beauty.

Flamboyant fashion personalities Nicki Minaj and Johnny Weir sat front row to enjoy the festivities.  Of course, no show without Betsey's finale cartwheel, which she did (at age 70) and even ended with split.  She also gave credit to her daughter who more or less runs the 'bones' of the operation these days.

Always a party, models came out with big metallic balloons to celebrate the collection at the end.

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Diane Von Furstenburg Spring 2012

 The iconic designer and head of CFDA, Diane Von Furstenburg presented one of the most talked about fashion shows so far.  She sent lots of brightly printed large florals down the runway. The designer also showed sold separates in beige, lemon yellow and pops of turquoise blue.  The prettiest pieces were the shimmering pastel day to evening looks.  There was a iridescent print used in 1960's silhouette dresses, embroidered sweaters, tops and sheaths.  The rolled neck on many looks were also quite retro.

The beauty styling was reminiscent of vintage Hitchcock leading ladies with elegant bouffant hair and ladylike pink lips.

Handbags were multiple variations of the envelope clutch.  Some were solid, some were color-blocked.  A few were produced to match the prints of the clothes. 

Fabulous four, Rachel Zoe, husband Rodger Berman, PR maven Lorenzo Martone, model

In a touching finale, Diane Von Furstenburg acknowledged the anniversary of the 9/11 attacks by handing out American flags to guests along the runway.  I love the hug and kiss she gave designer Valentino when she saw him (below).

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Cynthia Rowley Spring 2012

All that shines here is gold.  Cynthia Rowley brought her tongue-in-cheek contemporary dressing to Lincoln center yesterday with a gilded flair.  It started with a shiny gold runway that was being polished by multiple people prior to the show.

Silhouettes were fit and flared with skirts and dresses above the knee.  There was a black and gold grouping with graphic Aztec-inspired prints or more Baroque gold embellishment prints.  There was a lighter gold and cream grouping with more solid knits.

My favorite was the abstract, painterly floral print that looked like it was splattered across charmeuse and satin.  The florals were a mix of bright spring colors against a black or cream backdrop.

Cynthia Rowley not only gave good "runway", she was there to service her fellow fashionistas.  Parked outside the fashion week venue was the "Glambulance" to fix fashion malfunctions, cover up blisters with embellished band-aids and rescue beauty emergencies.

Spotted in the front row: Lindsay Lohan, Hamish Bowles

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: BCBG Spring 2012

Max Azria's brought simple dressing to the forefront for spring 2012. By simple dressing, I mean garment after garment of flat panels hanging off shoulders, swing silhouettes, and an avoidance of sleeves at any cost...

Look after look contained big easy shapes that looked like it could be one-size-fits-all flowing off the body. I wondered if the design team or pattern makers were going for ultimate comfort or were just too lazy to fit anything to the body this season.

There was lots of color blocking in royal blue, turquoise, yellow and orange. Big contrasting colors with prints that had tribal inspiration, but were vague about which culture's tribe. They were more of an updated, digital version of a lost civilization.

If you indulged too much over the holiday season, but still want to make a bold entrance next spring, you wouldn't find a more forgiving collection than BCBG.

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: TSE Cashmere Spring 2012

When spring and summer come around, do you think cozy cashmere?  If you don’t, the Spring 2012 collection for Tse Cashmere will make you reconsider.  The edited presentation at their Soho boutique was clean and knits were feather light.

The sportswear had easy silhouettes.  The superfine gauge sweaters looked like chiffon ready for the beach.  There were a few ultraglam draped dresses appropriate for when an evening gown is needed.  Separates included delicate cardigans paired with structured skirts.

The color palettes had shades of blue and steel grey.  Cream was also mixed with warm peach for a sunnier look. 

If your wardrobe is crying out for staples from very fine yarn, this is the collection for you.

Read more →

Cynthia Rowley Glambulance

Any situation that requires a band-aid is never a pleasant one.  Even worse, a bandage incident is never an attractive one either. 

When Cynthia Rowley came out with her limited edition collection of glammed-up first aid kit staples, I rushed out to grab a set.  While the sequin and jewel printed band-aids don’t take the physical sting out of your wounds, at least they soften the emotional ones. As you can see, I have already performed a fashion malfunction by blistering my ankle with a pair of Rodo Shoes that were not properly broken-in.

The once-limited edition set is now being offered en masse, with a “Glambulance” rushing to the rescue for fashion emergencies all through the upcoming NY Fashion Week. 

When Band-Aid asked me to post on this event, it brought back to mind the part they played in my family.

My sister-in-law was always really sweet to me since the early awkward days of first dating my husband.  We bonded on mutual loves of fashion and style.  She is a big fan of Cynthia Rowley’s boutique in Montauk, NY and also loved the band-aids when she saw my post on them on this site.

Well, unfortunately, she has had a really rough year.  She was in a brutal car accident right before Spring 2011 NY Fashion Week.  I heard about it while seated at the Cynthia Rowley show.  By coincidence, the show souvenir was the special tins of band-aids in little satin pouches on the seats.  I was able to gift these to her in the hospital after the shows.  She later sent me a photo of the band-aid bling covering pins in her leg at the hospital.

I was also very flattered to hear that she continued to read my reports of fashion week to keep up with the outside world while she recovered in the hospital.  Since the accident, she has also had several more trips to the hospital for a collapsed lung, cancerous cyst, etc.  What I was amazed by, was that even as she could be nodding off from drugs, 20 minutes out of surgery, she still looked like she just stepped out of a salon.  And, no one rocks a hospital gown like it was Haute Couture better than she does! 

Now for YOUR fashion emergencies, you can catch the Glambulance today and tomorrow.  Cynthia Rowley will make a personal appearance from 4:30 - 6:00 pm on Thursday.

• Thursday, September 8th, 4 p.m.-12 a.m. (Fashion’s Night Out)
• Glambulance stationed at 5^th Ave. and 57th St

• Friday, September 9th, 1 p.m.-9 p.m. (Date of Cynthia Rowley Show)
• Glambulance stationed at 65th Street and Broadway

 Have a story of your personal fashion malfunction?  Post it on the Cynthia Rowley Facebook page to win a $2500 shopping spree and styling session.  To enter, click through here.

Read more →