Theia Spring 2012

Romanced on a bed of roses?  I can't imagine a lovelier way to present a Spring 2012 collection.  With Goddess Chloris as a muse, designer Don O'Neill showed a meticulous collection of gowns and the debut of the Theia day dress line.

Chloris was the Goddess of flowers.  For Theia, this mean light, petal-like transparency. This inspiration was also translated into high tech digitally printed floral fabrics to hand-embroidered blooms on bodices.  A dimensional technique rarely produced in modern textiles was incorporated into an all-over gown.  

The day dresses included flattering seaming, prints, a sorbet color palette, as well as black and white.  Another innovative technique was Mr. O'Neill's use of laser-cut paillettes.  Instead of hard, shiny sequins, fabric was laser-cut into delicate, soft shapes embroidered onto cocktail dresses and gowns.  This resulted in an elaborately textured dress without the heavy weight of typical beads and jewels.

There were gowns of Theia's signature "crunchy" sequins (a mix of over 10 tonal colors giving a rich, dimensional effect), and light-radiating crystal embroidery.  No wonder the siren call of Theia has attracted the likes of Gossip Girl's Leighton Meester (she wore a Theia wedding gown), Taylor Swift and Emmy Rossum.

The designer gave the Ms. FAB team an exclusive interview to describe his work on this season's collection and access to the full show:

photos by Mariana Leung, video by Nicholas Waickman

Read more →

NY Fashion Week: Carlos Miele Spring 2012

"Will there be Samba musicians down this runway?"  There is only one designer I can think of where members of the photographer's pit would ask this question.  

Carlos Miele brought his brand of sophisticated Brazilian chic to Lincoln Center for New York Fashion Week.  There were no dancers or musicians, but the models brought South American style to Manhattan.  The first few looks to come down the runway were dramatic swirls of printed chiffon. 

The rest of the looks that followed were draped, sexy silhouettes showing off bronzed legs, bared shoulders and long necks.  Sunny orange, one of the most popular colors in the Spring 2012 collection was important in this collection as well.  Vivid blues and greens to reflect the beaches of Brazil were also very prominent.  The popular pattern were variations on a painterly swirled design interpreted in different color palettes.

Fabric manipulations were popular as a design detail on several gowns.  Fabric was twisted and braided.  Other gowns featured a gathered fabric floral technique. 

When spring hits NYC, I'm usually wading through dirty slush thawed from the winter.  If there is any luck in my world, next spring I'll be instead on a beach in Brazil, with a caipirinha in hand and a regal Mielle gown on my back...

Read more →

NY FASHION WEEK: Zang Toi Spring 2012

Dreaming of Marrakech. Malaysian designer Zang Toi was inspired by a journey to North Africa for his Spring 2012 collection. He took influences from the desert for the rich browns and the deep sapphire blue from the night sky. There were a few djeballa type silhouettes included as a nod to traditional Moroccan attire. There were gold appliques in motifs inspired by Moroccan architecture that adorned gowns and capes.

Besides travel muses, the collection was, as always, pure luxury. Zang Toi always chooses the most posh of silks and other fabrics. Every look exudes elegance and sophistication. There were a few cream and black ensembles appropriate for the day that were beautiful, but the guests here reserve their applause for his big gowns.

Kirstie Alley, most recently a favorite on Dancing with the Stars walked out as a Diva of Lincoln Center in the show finale. The burly guys of the photographers pit had been taking bets on her shape and size prior to the show, so it was satisfying to see her look gorgeous.

The ever charming Mr. Toi gave the Ms.FAB team an exclusive interview, our video will be up soon...

Photos by Mariana Leung

Read more →